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Great Northern Slab
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Marginal Karma 
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Voyage to the Bottom of the Verge 

Marginal Karma 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Whenever it's dry
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: jonah on Feb 9, 2006
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Description 

A fun thin crack just right of Breakfast of Champions. Long pulls on little locks takes you to the top. The spooky part is stepping off the belay ledge and having to yard on the somewhat loose, hollow undercling flake. This thing is sketchy and is going to blow sometime, maybe taking out somebody down below.


Protection 

Small nuts and cams. You can also TR it from the BOC anchors above.



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By Spanish John
Feb 27, 2006

exposure makes MK seem a little harder, stepping off the belay is kinda scary when doing this one for the first time. It would take a lot for the flake to blow I think, but who knows.

By Douglas T
Aug 7, 2013

The moves on the climb are super fun. The first few moves from the anchor take you from a comfy ledge straight into just-past-vertical undercling and small finger cracks. For mere mortals such as I, rehearsing on TR is easy from the BOC anchors.

I share the concern about the undercling flake, but even more so about a big detached looking block that's at the end of the technical climbing. I certainly recommend climbing it, but probably best to play on it when nobody is below.