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Steve Lazny on "Margarita Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.
This route is not as hard as it looks from the ground. It is well protected, secure, and is on solid stone. Other than Cellbound, it is the best route on this formation.
About 50' down and left of the previously established routes on this face, is a steep brown wall with several crack systems. Climb up a solid "bowl" to reach the bottom of a crack, perhaps 3 meters off of the ground. Set solid pro in the finger crack and climb it up and right onto some flakes and features, while the crack gets wider. Continue up past a few 5.8 moves to the top of the wall. To descend go to the summit and off, or simul-rap from a solid horn as we did (it rained on us and so we hurried down).
A standard light rack including a few cams for the crux. The rock is solid and placements appear as necessary.
By C Miller
Jan 27, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perhaps the best route on this forgettable formation, but still not especially memorable. Squeaks by with half a star out of five.