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Go to the South End of Lost Horse Wall, to the fine steep and solid section, as for Dappled Mare.
P1: (5.7, 70') Climb P1 of dappled Mare to the good ledge, and belay, perhaps 70' off of the ground.
P2: (Cl 3, 60) Move the belay well to the right, perhaps 50' to the end of the ledge and then up a slight ramp to the next ledge up and right. Set a belay here and get ready for the next pitch.
P3-4: (5.9+, 150-230') This pitch is the cool pitch, and pretty enervating for 5.9. Depending on your exact finish you may need a 70M rope or to break the pitch up. I did this route as a 70M lead to near the true summit of the wall and had hellish drag. I recommend going in 2 pitches or aiming to stop at the shoulder of the wall. Climb up a crack system that goes through the roof up above and continue along a curing crack with jams from finger sized to fist. If you will break up the pitch, it is best to do this after perhaps 60' or so, before the climb diagonals up and left over a blank face. Continue climbing to a spot where a 1" crack ends (1" TCU or pink tricam is good) and there are a few flaring holds traversing up and right to the start of another thin crack (small nuts). This section is the crux and will feel mildly runout, but will not produce a fall of severe consequence unless you place bad gear. After the crux, you climb up and right in the crack system to the shoulder of the rock. If you've not had enough, you can go up the crumbling shoulder slab to the true summit, but this is poor rock, runout, and a shave hard.
A set of stoppers, a set of TCU's (one extra 1" piece) and one set of cams to 3.5" Take a few long slings and maybe double up on gear for a long pitch if you don't break it up.
looking back after to having bail on P2 due to hig...
Jascha approaching the P2 belay
big traverse across the The Ledge
BETA PHOTO: selected Lost Horse routes
Patrick Walters follows on 'Mare's Tail' (5.9+), a...
By The Gray Tradster
May 12, 2003
Clarification of the route description: Belay on the large ledge at its' far right end, (about 40' right of Dappled). Climb up the crack past a couple of undercuts, (7,8ish) for about 80ft. Belay at the end of the crack where a horizontal intersects from the right, (Space Shot 5.8). Make a 5.9- move to a seam and go up to where the crack breaks left, (good pro finaly!) The wide stuff above is easier than it looks. If you run into poor rock you took a wrong turn somewhere. not as hard or frightening as Roan Way.
Nov 30, 2010
The natural start to this route seemed to me to be Edgar Rice Burros (5.10). No need for an intermediate ledge traverse. Done this way, it makes for 2 pitches of excellent climbing and a short scramble at the top.