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Marcy's Playground 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: EFR,John Baker,Geir Hundal,Marcy Makarewicz,'10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 24, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: At first I thought that this was John Baker, but t...

Description 

Steep face, easy crack and a steep head wall finish make this worth bringing a small rack along. It eases up a lot once you reach the gear section and may be no harder than 5.7 or 5.8. The head wall will bring you back to 5.11.


Location 

Starts in a scoop/corner feature capped by blocky dark rock with 3 bolts in it. Above this is a pretty right facing corner with a sweet looking crack.


Protection 

Bolts small rack up to red size camalot



Photos of Marcy's Playground Slideshow Add Photo
EFR on the FA.
BETA PHOTO: EFR on the FA.
This is when we realized it was Baker.
This is when we realized it was Baker.
Comments on Marcy's Playground Add Comment
Show which comments
By jbak
Jul 24, 2010

This is a good route to do if you want to "claim" a 5.11 trad lead. The gear part is easy and the gear is bombproof. The upper crux is nice but hard to read.

I was robbed of the onsight FA, going for the anchor, when a foothold exploded. That's my _STORY_ anyway. Good clean fall off upper headwall.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 25, 2010

this is a very good climb. three well placed bolts protect the tricky starting sequence, after which you get into a beautiful crack section that takes great pro. the final headwall is actually a lot of fun and (for me) the crux.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 11, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is probably my favorite route at the crag to date. Nice variety. Recommended.

By Jimbo
Sep 12, 2010

I concur with John on the rating. If you go left on the upper face it's no harder than 11a. Fun route, too bad the crack part is so easy.
Definitly way easier than Canadian Bacon.

By jbak
Sep 12, 2010

I was trying to be ultra-pure and so went straight for the anchor. Now I hear that most folks trend left at the top.

By Jimbo
Sep 12, 2010

John, we're too old to be thinking about being pure. Trickery is the tool of choice fer us old timers.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 6, 2012

Looks like some nice human took a hammer to the first bolt hanger. It is a Fixe hanger and they were able to bend it over a ways. You can still clip it so I would use and not worry about it.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 10, 2013

what do you mean "took a hammer" to it? is the hanger dilapidated?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 10, 2013

Took a hammer to = bent it down flat against the rock. Well, almost flat - you can still just barely clip it.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 8, 2013

did this route on saturday, certainly a good fun time. the crack gobbles gear and is a ton of fun. the bottom seems a bit soft for 11- and felt more like stiff 10+ to me. i finished in the chimney so i cannot attest to the upper headwall difficulty.