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Altered States Gully
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March of the Gummi Bears 
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March of the Gummi Bears 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike and John Hansen 1995
Season: west facing
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: bheller on Mar 23, 2010
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Description 

March of the Gummi Bears...this may be the stupidest name in all of the Wasatch. Perhaps March of the Gumby Bears would have been more appreciated. Originally this forgotten route followed the Magic Circus corner/ramp for 60 feet and then traversed right above the roof on chicken heads to depart from the corner and climb the middle of the upper slab. The starting corner's seam is missing pins that it likely once had, and in its current state is now 10a X- with a death block. Two new bolts down low now allow a climber to attack the small roof straight on and join the original bolts on the upper slab. Place a #1 camalot in the pod 25 feet up, climb above it a few feet, and then begin the traverse right to the first bolt(new). At the above roof, get your paws into the undercling (clip new bolt #2), and execute a unique boulder problem to reach the flat edge 5 feet to the left. Static or dynamic...both have been done! Above the last bolt place a blue tcu or a 2 camalot and finish at the anchors shared by Proscenium and Magic Circus. Slab Bouldering!!!


Location 

Shares the start with Magic Circus and Proscenium. Climb up the low angle broken crack 25 feet, traverse right 10 feet, now follow the bolts- heading for the seam/crack that divides the top of the slab.


Protection 

A perfect #1 camalot before you traverse right out of the Magic Circus crack, then bolts(6?), then a #2 camalot or blue tcu at the top in the seam/crack.



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By bheller
From: SL UT
Mar 23, 2010

Yet another reason to tour the Altered States slab circuit...the crux is so unique, you surely will not soon forget it!

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Mar 24, 2010

This is one of the coolest names for an LCC route...
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