A gem in the rough. Gradual to steeply overhanging blue, gold and white streaked limestone up to 250 feet high. New routes and retro bolted lines went in recently. See "Bigfoot Country Climbing" for info about the crag. The guide lists many routes drilled for Removable Bolts. Since these are no longer made, old routes with "R.B.s" for pro are being retro bolted with the permission of the first ascentionists.
In Northern CA, take Hwy 36 from either Red Bluff inland, or near Fortuna from the coast.
Just east of the "no horse" town Forest Glen, near Hell Gate campground is Flume Gulch Road where Rattlesnake creek flows under Hwy 36.
Take Flume Gulch road 3 miles to the end of the pavement. For the Dream Wall, turn left onto 1S14D. Camp / park on an old logging landing about 1 mile down this road. The trail to the cliff starts at the back of the logging landing, in the trees. Follow this faint trail over the saddle to the right end of the Dream Wall. Walk right across the "catwalk" to the other walls of this sector.
The Bowling Ball is accessed by continuing along Flume Gulch Road past the junction with the road to the Dream Wall. Park at mile post 10. Hike down hill to the southwest from there 5 minutes to the crag. The crags are not visible from the parking area.
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Marble Caves
A.A.D. 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a CA
: Redwood Coast
: ... : Mystery Tower
Steep laybacking up a shallow groove. Bouldery crux between 6th and 7th bolts that may be slightly height-dependent. Gear-protected from 7th bolt to anchors (~20 feet), bring a couple pieces or run it out (it's pretty easy...if you got up the rest of it, you shouldn't have an issue with this section)....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Taylor Morrow|
Mar 4, 2012
Has anyone climbed here this year? i am really itching to get on some real rock and this area seams the best chance to have a nice winter climbing session. Is there anymore info on this area someone would be willing to share?