Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mt. Gorgeous
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Born on the 4th of July S 
Camel Straight S 
Cialis Stud S 
Cig-arete S 
Climb it Change S 
Commitment Issues S 
Crack Horror S 
Delicious S 
Family Jewel S 
Gorgeous S 
K-2 S 
Luscious S 
Marauding Monkeys S 
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 
Swipe Right To Match S 

Marauding Monkeys 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown Feb '05
Page Views: 4,574
Submitted By: Joe Dondero on Sep 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Near the top.


Sharing the first 4 bolts of Delicious the route heads up easy slab to a big hueco. Then it starts heading right over a bulge to a big hole (it seems that there is possibly an owl living here at the moment). Rest here for the crux is next followed by an easy but exposed finish to chains. Route probably gets its 11a rating for the pure enduro fest required to send. The route sees a lot of sun and can be brutal hot during the summer when shaded areas are more comfortable.


The obviously really long route at Mt. Gorgeous starting at Delicious that heads up, to the right, and out of sight.


15 bolts to chains
Helmet for belay
60m will barely do it, 50m will not.

Photos of Marauding Monkeys Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: As my friend was climbing the .11a at Mt. Gorgeous...
As my friend was climbing the .11a at Mt. Gorgeous...

Comments on Marauding Monkeys Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Kozak
Mar 13, 2011

I did this route last week. As I pulled up to the hueco a raptor flew out. I think it was a hawk, goldish in color, maybe an owl. All I know is that it was big and as I was trying to hang on I didn't get a great look. My belayer thought it was an owl. As we are from Colorado we aren't familiar with the birds of the area.

BTW, the route was fun.
By Kelly Ringwald
Jun 17, 2011

It's a barn owl. Last weekend I was just slipping my leg into the cave for a kneebar rest/clip when our eyes met and it shot out like a rocket past me. Not sure who was more scared.

Beautiful bird. I hope it sticks around and I'll try to leave it undisturbed next time.
By steple
Jul 12, 2011

This route is best cleaned by following.
By Xan Calonne
From: Joshua Tree, Ca
May 16, 2012

Beehive at ledge before anchors as of 5/15/12. Unpleasant surprise. Ha.
By edehaven
Jul 23, 2012

7-21-2012 There was a large beehive just past where the two routes split off, might still be the other one farther up, but cant tell.
My partner got stung so be aware

just FYI
By Will Cornell
Aug 17, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is great! Its a perfect testpiece for those who are looking to reach in the 5.11 ratings -- it was my first 5.11. BETA ALERT: there are two big holes in the wall that you can litterally climb into and sit in to rest. If you are trying to get a flash/redpoint then be sure to get a good rest at the second hole, because the hardest move is right after. However I would say that the real crux is simply surviving the pump on this very long route. ALSO: this route is kind of hard to clean, so I would suggest having a friend follow you up on TR to take the draws out
By Christian Boewe
Oct 20, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Exactly what Will said, terrible to clean because of the climb in which you head upwards to the right, but worth it if you've made it. Great climb and the distance makes it all the better once you get to the top!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!