Many Happy Returns 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Mosher, Dixon |
| Submitted By: | EricT on Feb 5, 2006 |
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"Many Happy Returns" boasts unusually steep and we...
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Description Left of Orangahang is a lone bolt in the middle of the slab. Climb past and then head right towards the bolt and lieback. After liebacking the detached block, climb weird fingerlocks up the slab to the nice ledge. The route finishes just right of the 3rd class gully.
Protection Like much of San Ysidro, the route is mixed, with bolts and trad placements. Down low, the route is a bit run out, but can be protected. Bolted anchors at the top.
Update: The Many Happy Returns rap-anchor was replaced in April, 2006. Two Rawl-style expansion bolts of unknown age were removed. One 1/2" Rawl-style five-piece expansion bolt and one Fixe 3/8" double-wedge expansion bolt were placed with stainless steel rappel rings.
Another view of the steep and juggy middle-section...
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i took a friend climbing outside for his first tim...
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| Comments on Many Happy Returns |
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.8
| On the upper half of the route, I stem between the crack and various holds out left. This feels a couple of grades easier than the aforementioned "weird fingerlocks." |
By Evan1984
Jul 5, 2009
| This is a great route and probably one of my local favorites!
The crux for me is the slabby part from the first bolt to the stance to clip the second. The physical crux is probably the steep face/lieback part from the 2nd bolt to the nice ledge.
A light rack will do. A .75 and a 1 BD camalot protect the lieback well. I don't recall using any other pro, but its been a while since I've done this one. |
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Don't know much about local ratings but this is an east coast 5.8. |
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 14, 2009
| ...and a Yosemite 5.7 |
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 13, 2013
| Always went straight up to [what I know now] is the second bolt. The slab just past the first bolt is definitely 5.9. |
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