This route shares the same first two bolts with Acapulco Arete, but then it goes right. The book does not do the traverse justice. A sustained hard 10 traverse is waiting for you. Falling on this traverse would not be fun, for either the leader or the follower. Plan your moves in advance, stay steady, calm, and push those heels down. Exciting lead.
3 draws and 2 for the new chains.
|By John Steiger|
Sep 1, 2008
I'm getting soft in my old age, but this is arguably an "R." There is potential for about a 20' swinging fall past a likely ankle-snapping knob when stepping up to clip the 3rd bolt. You might miss it, but then again.... Seemed more risky than Paranoia Streak to me.