I don't know how many times I've been to the Scarface Wall and not gone to the right side. Mantel Illness is a ways down on the right side (couple hundred yards). There is a very short crack to the left of Mantel Illness.
This is a fun climb, with a crux unlike most in the Creek. It's easy 5.10- climbing up to the crux. The crux is a great bouldery mantel/highstep move. It's well protected by a green alien or, if you're scared, a #0 TCU less then a foot higher. After the mantel, the climb is pretty much over. Easily done with a 60 meter rope.
A few hand pieces for the start, and then a smattering of gear down to a green alien.
|By Grant Bryans|
From: buena vista colorado
Apr 21, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13
I think Bloom calls this climb an 11-, the high step crux is tricky, at least for me, but this is a gem, haven't led it just TR but soon.....
|By todd bogan|
Mar 2, 2007
Seems like the crux mantle was more than 10+
blue TCU is below your feet, move's balancey, Sinestra-esque
and the piece you get before the chains is in friable rock.
All this keeps the brain busy on lead.
BTW, if ya got bigger hands, the hand crack is no giveaway, with
a couple bodylengths of splitter offset green camalots.
super fun route
From: Golden, Colorado
Dec 26, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
This route is atypical indian creek route, but one of my fav-o-rites!
|By T. Gittins|
Mar 31, 2011
i found the face climbing crux to be relatively positive...you are not forced to mantle if you hit the crimps right. getting to the first jug was harder for me.
From: San Francisco
May 24, 2011
Climbed this last week. Amazing, has a bit of everything, from crimps to great hand jams. A must do when your at the creek. Its to the right of Wavy Gravy
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
I have to agree that this is a gem. Well worth doing if you are over this far on Scarface. I was able to get a solid 0.3Camalot just below the mantel, which made me feel better for the crimps up above.
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
i thought the off fingers splitter beneath the mantel section was the crux. pretty balancy/ barn door sort of thing. the face climbing goes pretty well if you hit the holds right.