|(5) Bat Wall
A very quality climb that makes for a great link up with either Dracula or Bad Omen. The crux is big and powerful, but all in all the route stays consistent. It stays cleaner than many of the other routes on the Bat Wall too.
Located on the Bat Wall, just above Dracula and Bad Omen.
Sport route that is protected very well.
|Comments on Manson Family Reunion
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Let me amend my previous comment on this awesome route to say that, yes, it has a hard, bouldery crux (V5?), but if you stick it the rest of the route is a BLAST! One of the most striking, fun lines in Portland. The final lip encounter is super exciting. This line gets 5 stars anywhere. If you can climb either Dracula or Bad Omen, you can send this thing!
|By Eric Schnepel|
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Wow. Can't believe how rad this route is. Doesn't get much better than this around Portland. Pretty much a 12a with a 3 move V5 thrown in at the bottom. The movement through this crux is explosive and awesome. It really is some of the coolest movement I have experienced on a rope. The rest of the route climbs well too. Tried linking straight into it from Dracula and got serious rope drag towards the top. It works much better to pull the rope through the 'draws, have your belayer move a few feet over, and belay from directly below with a free-hanging rope.