Manly Bulges 5.13c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13+ [details] |
| FA: | Ryan Lewis |
| Submitted By: | Hayden Miller on Apr 20, 2009 |
| |
Manly Bulges powers over the right side of the bul...
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Description Short route with two hard cruxes. It is called 5.13c in the guide, but it has broken twice and is considered by some to be 5.14a. More like a V8 to a V8 in my opinion which adds up to 5.13d. The second boulder problem is a bit height-dependent. My beta involves dynoing off of a left hand undercling with a right hand two finger gaston.
Location This is a bit to the right of Black Slabbeth and currently has two hanging draws going up its black bulges.
Protection 8 draws should be enough.
By rylew Dec 3, 2009 rating: 5.13c/d
| Ian gifted me this project in 2000 or 2001 and the fa was done by Ryan Lewis of Denver. |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Dec 3, 2009
| I tried this a bit and thought it was brick hard. Very small holds on the upper crux. I remember wishing there were a lower bolt to keep the rope out of the way on the lower crux and lessen the sketch factor clipping the first bolt. Good work, Ryan! |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Feb 25, 2010 rating: 5.13c
| Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this. I really think this is a quality route, despite the above detractions. The rock is absolutely stellar, some of the best at Cactus. The moves are cerebral & fun. I tried this once in 2008 and came away with the same conclusions as everyone else: sharp, height-dependent, sandbagged. However, there is another sequence, glaringly obvious once you figure it out, that is not height-dependent, and IMO significantly easier than the beta described above. |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Feb 27, 2010
| It is funny how a 20-25' choss scramble to a high first bolt undermines the experience. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Feb 27, 2010 rating: 5.13c
| I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse). |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Feb 27, 2010 rating: 5.13c
| Ok, I emailed Ryan Lewis & Ian Spencer-Green, and they both approve the addition of a bolt at the start. If there are any objections, speak up. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Mar 5, 2010 rating: 5.13c
| Ben & I were able to get the new bolt in today. Thanks, Ben, for the belay and the use of your drill! |
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