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This excellent line follows a thin finger crack up to and over the roof. Once arriving at the roof, things get much more involved with powerful underclings and lunges to sloper holds, and finally a lunge to a good hand jam.
For even more fun, try the thin crack just right of the regular start which leads to the same roof crux, but involves more 5.11 and 12- moves before getting to the roof. This variation is very sustained and better than the regular start. Whichever way you start, there is a surprisingly large amount of hard climbing in such a short stretch of rock.
Nuts and small cams, plus a hand sized piece for after the crux.
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
So, after the first roof, I went left through the next roof, does anybody else go this way? or is the hand crack to the right where most people go?