Start approximately 20' to the right of Harvey's Wallbangers, Right at a low-angle, left trending crack/seam. There is a pod about 15' off the ground that offers good protection. Continue up right-trending crack for a full rope length and belay when out of rope or where comfortable. A short, 50' pitch takes you to the top.
Descend to the east (climber's left).
|By Josh Cameron|
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Most people hate this climb, but I like it. Despite the easy rating, it's probably not a good beginner lead since the climb involves some committing moves (for 5.5 at least) above thin gear. Better to stick to Knapsack Crack.
|By Alex Haeger|
From: Denver, CO
Oct 20, 2012
This route begins at the very tall pine with bushes directly climbers right (correct me if I'm wrong). I started a pitch below that (5.easy but loose) because there was no better info on here about the approach to this route. I came from climbers left, where I followed the main lovers leap trail from campgrounds until the left turn at the downed log at the notch in the hills. Can someone update the approach to this climb?
Also, I think Mountain Project route posters should steer away from describing route locations based on where the route to the left/right is in relation. Many people who use this site don't know where the right/left routes are and can get lost very easily. Especially on these easy routes which are often climbed by those new to the sport.
Jun 14, 2013
This climb is actually called "Hog Flake" , i was one of the FA party in 1977 along with Greg Bergren . It starts to the right of the large tree in an arching expanding flake- then into thin cracks eventually reaching the 2nd belay stance of wave rider. We rated it 5.7
|By JC w KC redux|
Jul 1, 2013
Alex - follow the obvious slanting crack system(s)- slants up and right - up to the big tree - listed as 4th class on supertopo but a few moves border on 5th class - it's like doing a solo warmup pitch. There is an excellent exposed tree root several inches in diameter to anchor your belayer at the start of manic. I thought the initial crux after the pod in the flake was easy compared to some of the moves higher up. The crack is shallow and flaring in several sections. I would suggest building the belay after the middle mark on a 60m rope where the stances are decent and the gear is solid.
Josh is right about the rating. I thought some of the moves were at least a grade harder - esp when compared to Knapsack.