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4. Moby Grape Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Hallow T 
Manhedral T 
Moby Grape T 
Moonshadow T 
Peppy's Face S 
Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblanc's unfinished variation) T 
Tip Trip T 
Union Jack T 
Vertigo T 
White Iceberg, The T 
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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dana Drummond and Bayard Russell
Page Views: 2,471
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 16, 2008

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Bayard Russell at the crux. Photo by Dana Drummon...


The Manhedral is directly above the pendulum on Vertigo. The perfect, textured granite of Vertigo continues up this way too.

1.Climb the first pitch of Vertigo

2.Climb the flake on Vertigo that accesses the pendulum, but just keep on climbing. The flake ends below a small overlap with a fixed pin. Climb up and over the overlap which gains a beautiful left facing corner. The 5.12 crux is getting into the corner which begins as a quarter inch edge on its left side and becomes a huge dihedral. There is a second fixed pin below the crux. After some 5.10 corner climbing exit right at a subtle break, a bit of sporty 5.11d stemming, to a stance on Claustrophobia below a finger crack that becomes a chimney. Both of the fixed pins were from an earlier attempt and are suspect, but both can be backed up. 5.12

3. We were having fun so we took an unnecessary right, you'll find a fixed blade, to join a gorgeous left facing corner which is climbed by a tips crack back up and left through a swell, fixed LA after the crux, until it joins the so called Quarter Moon hand crack on Claustrophobia. 5.11

Climb to the top on Veritgo or rap.

rack: A set or so of nuts, maybe a few extra small ones and a set of cams with some doubles around the tips, fingers and tight hand sizes. Bring some small cams too.

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