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Espero Primavera
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Mandragora 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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Enjoying the beautiful orange streak of "Manr...

Description 

Mandragora is a classic technical, vertical, enduro wall climb reminiscent of American classics like Orange Juice and Heinous Cling. Although not quite as stellar (or as hard) as either of those legendary lines, this is one of the most classic lines of Siurana, and should be on the tick list of any visitor that can climb at the grade.

Sadly the line bakes in the sun nearly all day, making it a bit of a tease for visitors on a tight schedule. The top of the climb gets sun first, and the shade line slowly drops, hitting the relatively low crux around 11am. Fortunately the holds are surprisingly not sharp at all, climbing beautiful orange sculpted pockets & smooth incut edges, rather than the sharp crimps found everywhere else.

Begin with easy moves to the big ledge 10 feet up. Follow jugs up & left over the slight bulge to a stance on the tan slab near the 3rd bolt. The crux passes this slab on thin, sequential edges. Above, follow more incut holds in beautiful dark orange stone, veering right to reach the midway anchor in white rock. A difficult boulder problem on slopey crimps heads back left from the anchor to more orange jugs. Follow the juggy slab, moving right to clip, until the holds expire & you are forced right to thin holds in white stone. Surmount a small bulge, work into the black corner and up to the anchor.

Location 

At the far left end of the Espero Primavera cliff. Walk the trail along the base of the crag, passing behind a 30-foot high pinnacle with a few short, steep routes. Beyond this is a brilliant orange streak. Mandragora climbs directly up the heavily chalked line of bolts up the orange streak.

Protection 

Many bolts to the second two bolt anchor. There is an intermediate lower station if you lack a 70m rope.


Photos of Mandragora Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the crux on "Mandragora".
Just above the crux on "Mandragora".
Mandragora climbs the heavily chalked orange streak, finishing just above the high roof.
Mandragora climbs the heavily chalked orange strea...

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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 9, 2009

When I did this, we had a 70m rope and when I lowered I only made it to just below the ledge at 10 feet and had to down climb, so beware you may or not make it with a 70m.