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Bulletheads South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Alegria S 
Black Book, The T 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 
Xenolith Dance S 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 928
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Near the top of Manana Crack


The obvious finger crack on the wall left of several sport climbs including Xenolith Dance. The beginning has a distinct lightning-bolt look and the crux comes in the thin locks and small gear of the first 20'.

The climb follows thin flakes and the obvious clean crack for 40m as the angle slowly kicks back. The last few moves are up a slab to the chains.

Rated .10c in the Select guide, both myself and partner found it a touch easier, but still very fun. There is an intermediate rappel station (the anchors for xenolith dance) to allow getting off the climb with one rope.


On the left side of the Manana Wall to the left of several sport climbs including "Xenolith Dance". This wall is reached by hiking up above Coogee Crack from Bullethead Ledge, or by walking left from the top of Slot Machine.


Double set of cams to 1" and a set of nuts.

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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 10, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

So fun! Techy, sustained and thoughtful for an honest 30m or so, then as the angle kicks back it's a fun romp with jugs and locks for another 25m. The business section climbs like the EPB variation of Skywalker, but harder. I recommend singles from grey Metolius to #3 Camalot, doubles from 0.4 to. 75, and some RPs to supplement your regular nuts. Also thought the route length is underestimated here, closer to 55m I reckon.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

FA: John Howe, Rolf Rybak, Sept. 1982

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