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L to R R to L Alpha
Inspired by an image recently posted here by Tenesmus, Zac and I decided to have a go at this unclimbed line on the Lizard Head Wall. In spite of the blustery, cold conditions, we managed to thrutch our way up this severely leaning hands-to-fists crack and into the bombay squeeze chimney above. From the Blue Collar Crack belay, downclimb a few body lengths to the base of the obvious, right-leaning handcrack. The business starts right off of the belay, then the route eases considerably; mantling the awkward bulge--and, perhaps, the angle of the crack--proved to be the crux. Continue past a steep, darker colored roof then finesse your way into the wideness, careful to avoid a bit of bat guano. Bring pants. The chain anchor belay atop the Redneck Slab (10a) provides an escape; rap to the first belay, then to the top of Squeeze My Lemon--or to just shy of the deck if you've got a 70m and don't mind a bit of easy downclimbing. This adventure was fueled almost entirely by discount provisions purchased on our way to the canyon--hence, the Manager's Special.
To find the Manager's Special, climb Blue Collar Crack (9+), Part Time Crack (5), or even Squeeze My Lemon (7)--link it past its anchors to the final slab moves of Blue Collar--to a two bolt belay. From the belay, downclimb a body length or two to the base of a right-leaning handcrack.
Bring pro to 3.5", with optional wide gear to 7" for the back of the upper chimney. Doubles may prove useful in hands to fists. Don't forget the long slings!