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Routes in Lizard Head Wall
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Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cashmere Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On the Wings of Maybe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tangerine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zesty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Z. Robinson, S. Ohkawa, 25 March 2010 |
| Page Views: | 897 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | mountainsense on Mar 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Inspired by an image recently posted here by Tenesmus, Zac and I decided to have a go at this unclimbed line on the Lizard Head Wall. In spite of the blustery, cold conditions, we managed to thrutch our way up this severely leaning hands-to-fists crack and into the bombay squeeze chimney above. From the Blue Collar Crack belay, downclimb a few body lengths to the base of the obvious, right-leaning handcrack. The business starts right off of the belay, then the route eases considerably; mantling the awkward bulge--and, perhaps, the angle of the crack--proved to be the crux. Continue past a steep, darker colored roof then finesse your way into the wideness, careful to avoid a bit of bat guano. Bring pants. The chain anchor belay atop the Redneck Slab (10a) provides an escape; rap to the first belay, then to the top of Squeeze My Lemon--or to just shy of the deck if you've got a 70m and don't mind a bit of easy downclimbing. This adventure was fueled almost entirely by discount provisions purchased on our way to the canyon--hence, the Manager's Special.
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