Man Overboard  5.10d R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130 feet FA:  M. Slaunch & B. Gillett, 1998 Submitted By:  Tony B on Jul 6, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

David near the crux of Man Overboard. The huge lef...

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Description 

Approach Ships Prow from Chasm Lake and come to the obvious left-leaning chimney/ramp. 30' left of this is a shallow left-facing dihedral with a thin crack, 40' up this is a flake/roof to the right.

P1: (5.10d, 130') Climb up the previously described dihedral, continuing up past the flake, which if taken offers a 5.9 escape). Past eh flake set small gear and do thin moves- this was done on lead as a smear and layback to the left side, and followed as a shallow setm to the right. Both felt like 5.10+. The topo from Gillett suggests that as the dihedral curves right to topout into the chimney, that you follow it, but this was wet and reeked of decaying vegitation. Instead, we climbed up and left through some bulges to reach a second crack (5.9, S?) and then up to level with the top of the top chocstone of the chimney, then right, then under it, and up to the top fo the loose rock in it to a 2 pin- belay on the right.

P2-?? Continue on Portal or Ship Of Fools.

Retreat if necessary: A few slings and a rapid-link or two could convert the fixed pin belay into a rap station.

Protection 

The route requires pro from small stoppers (RP or equiv) to 2.5". much of the pitch is above small stoppers that may have been placed blind and may not be that great. Gillett (FA party) suggests lowe-balls in his book, but I found that brass HB taipers (not offsets) and such worked the best due to the small placement availability