Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Faint Horizon S 
Assassin , The S 
Continental Drift S 
Holy Roller S 
Lucky Old Sun S 
Man On the Moon S 
Scythe, The S 
Slipstream S 
Solitaire S 
Whiplash S 

Man On the Moon 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 5,607
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
Bolting the Spacewalk Pitch.

Description 

This little four pitch line takes an arcing trajectory up, and across the Main Wall linking together excellent, and exposed climbing on good to great rock. For your comfort the flight path also includes several outstanding belays, two of which are near perfect ledges which allow you to really enjoy the views, and the higher expanses of this rugged canyon. Though the first belay is semi hanging, I would think that having three passengers, with two ropes on the voyage would be no problem at all. This little trip through the air is also a fully equipped sport adventure. A simple rack of 14 draws, 4 runners, and one 60 meter rope + personal runners is all you should need.

Also, as and added bonus, you can now access the anchors of Solitaire via optional descent after pitch 2. It is a great way to clean holds, and hang draws on what is the most classic line at the crag. Hopefully this will help people get on it, because the hike up is an energy zapper to begin with, let alone 5.12 climbing at 8600'. Git on it!!


PITCH 1, The Lift Off Pitch: 5.10-, 100', 11 bolts- Start below, and just right of first bolt. Pull the little boulder problem, and mantle the horn. Watch your foot holds. If you feel comfortable you can pull that first draw (or leave it), and scamper up to the ledge and clip the second bolt. The next 25' of climbing wanders around on the path of least resistance while navigating several mantle problems. Stick to the big holds left of bolts 2,3, and 4. Then find a way around the right side of the 5th bolt to some solution pocket rails. The next couple moves are 5.9+, and they feel a little bit out from the bolt over the ledge. The rock closer in to the good holds was too hollow for a bolt, so suck it up a bit, and find the large hand and foot holds, and there will be a good clip, from big holds real quick. When you get below the bulge, take a few breaths and enjoy the view a bit, because the 5.10- crux of the route is right above you. After the shake, launch up into the bulge through long reaches with good intermediates. This section is very safe, exposed, and just plain fun. Move right under the slab lip overhang past a couple of sharp pod jams, to a great rest just over the lip of the bulge. The rock quality from here on out is superb, and the next 30' feet of jug hauling up the steep slab is priceless. A 2 bolt anchor keeps you tethered to the Orbit Belay, which is semi hanging, but has a nice mini ledge....

PITCH 2, The Spacewalk Pitch: 5.7, 80', 6 bolts- From the belay start climbing up, and right on a perfect swath of slabby terrain which is generously adorned with all sorts of beautiful holds. The harder parts of this pitch will feel semi slab tech, and exposed. Though this pitch is pretty clean lichen wise, we didn't spend a ton of time on it, but I am sure the best way will be found easily enough and get cleaner over time. After bolt 6, scurry over some 4th class terrain, past a small pine tree (I sling this tree to keep the rope running where I want it), and up to an awesome ledge with 2, 1/2' bolts and black hangers for the belay. Welcome to the Space Station Belay....

You will see an equipped rappel anchor about 8' to the right. This is the anchor used to rap down to Solitaire's anchor, which is about 40' down. From Solitaire's anchor it is 100' to the ground.

PITCH 3, The Apollo Pitch: 4th class, 80', 4 bolts- This is a walking traverse pitch which follows a natural break in this highly featured section of the wall just below the crown. The color of the stone and lichen on this pitch are off the hook. Don't forget to look where you are going, as you make your way to the distant corner, and the Lunar Ledge. This ledge is awesome, and it is hard not to spend a little time enjoying it.

PITCH 4, The Moonwalk Pitch: 5.8, 50', 4 bolts- This is neat little pitch which is characterized by an open dihedral which is get black on the left side, and white on the right. After you have soaked up the ever luxurious Lunar Ledge, stem up the wide groove past 2 bolts and interesting moves, then mantle small ledge. Enjoy crisp holds, and attentive stemming up the final 25' of perfect climbing to the top of the wall!!

Whether you fly through it, or pack a picnic lunch, you are sure to enjoy this route, which kind of feels like a little piece of Cochise Stronghold right in our backyard. The top of this wall is certainly worth poking around a bit. There are some awesome "frozen in time" lava fins and, other interesting geological oddities. You can get views of the San Francisco Peaks from the western side of the ridge, which is just a couple minutes west through the boulders. On a clear day, you can see Granite Mountain. Enjoy.



DESCENT: A few notes... This route was partially designed to allow access to the anchors of the harder routes on the wall below. With a little finagling one can reach all three anchors of the center hard routes. There is a fully equipped rappel anchor at every belay, and if retreat is needed, you have three options. However, with a 60 meter rope, from the top of the 4th pitch, and the top of the wall-

Rappel 1, From the very top 2 bolt, chain anchor, rappel 90' down, past the Lunar Ledge, to 2 bolt anchor of the route Whiplash.

Rappel 2, From the Whiplash anchor rappel 80' down to the ground.


Location 

Middle of the Main Wall, in between Lucky Old Sun and Solitaire.


Protection 

14 draws, 4 runners, 60 meter rope.



Photos of Man On the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
James leading out pitch 4. <br /> <br />Wade Forrest Photo
James leading out pitch 4.

Wade Forrest Photo
Joel Unema, and James Q Martin leading pitch 2, the Space Walk Pitch.... <br /> <br />Wade Forrest Photo
Joel Unema, and James Q Martin leading pitch 2, th...
Wade on the .10- bulge.
Wade on the .10- bulge.
Man On the Moon topo.
BETA PHOTO: Man On the Moon topo.
Wade at the Orbit belay, and myself following up the first pitch.
Wade at the Orbit belay, and myself following up t...
Wade and I on the Lunar Ledge after completing the route, Christmas Day, 2011.  Now that's my kind of Christmas.
Wade and I on the Lunar Ledge after completing the...
Angela belays Ellie up the first pitch
Angela belays Ellie up the first pitch
a brisk start
a brisk start
Wade taking in the view from the Lunar Ledge, base of pitch 4.  Flagstaff in the distance.
Wade taking in the view from the Lunar Ledge, base...
Ellie spacewalking the second pitch
Ellie spacewalking the second pitch
Comments on Man On the Moon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 1, 2012

This is the new date route in Flagstaff. So far it has seen only bromantic ascents by the First Ascentionists (Thanks so much for all of your work JJ and Wade!) and now by Q and myself. If you are looking for a safe, exciting, and beautiful route for a cool sunny day, look no further. Easy to do with a 60m rope and 15 draws. Get out and climb this new classic.

By Angela Mabe
From: Flagstaff,AZ
Jan 3, 2012

Awesome work guys!!! Can't wait to get on this :)

By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 4, 2012

This route was super fun! Thanks to those who put the time and effort in on, not only the trail up to the area, but to the route also! The 5.10 pitch us super quality, the slab is surprisingly good, as is the last pitch!

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 7, 2012

Right on, right on.... Hey, I don't want these grades to be sandbagged either, so please add your two cents on the topic. Thanks.

By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 8, 2012

Grades felt pretty on. The first pitch might feel harder for a shorter climber with the reach at the rail, but the rest seemed right on. It was super fun, again thanks for putting the work into it. Stoked to get on Solitaire!!!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a hoot! This is a good multipitch primer in Flagstaff. The Lift-off and Spacewalk were a blast and just what the doctor ordered. Moving the belay on pitch 3 was very clean. Lunar Ledge is great to hang out on, and I wish the last pitch went for 400 more feet!

We ran it as a party of three and it worked well with one 70m rope. Two women and a man on the moon ascent! Only a dozen draws/runners and belay gear are needed. Though it looked like you can rap from Lunar Ledge to the ground in one 35m rap. Is this true?

Well done fellas. Great to see such heart, soul, and creativity put into the area, including the great trail work.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 16, 2012

You can definitely make one rap from the Lunar Ledge to the ground with a 70 meter rope.

By Ryan Z
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, great introduction to multi-pitch. You can link pitch 1 and 2 with a 70m and 18 draws. The belay station at the top of P1 is really quite something. I am 5'7" and I don't have any trouble clipping any bolts or moving onto the rail before the slab.

5.10-

By Arjuna
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome climb! The first pitch is the best in my opinion. A little reachy but there's always a great hold just a little higher.

On the second pitch about 15 feet above the first belay station, there's a huge boulder that's very loose. It looks like a great hold but please be careful around it.

By Wade Forrest
Feb 19, 2013

Just a heads-up, when linking the first two pitches (with a 70m) expect a decent amount of rope drag on the slab.