|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Glen Payan, John Thompson, Jeff Thompson|
|Submitted By:||Peter Spindloe on Dec 1, 2007|
|Comments on Man of Leisure||Add Comment|
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By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
The trail is now VERY heavily used :) It's the descent for the uber-popular Skywalker. Find Skywalker, and keep heading up the trail past numerous hand lines. As you round the final corner of the buttress a big ledge heads out left to anchor bolts.
This was a fabulous route, but I was surprised to find a slightly heady section in the middle after the well protected bottom.
Towards the top when you transition into a hand crack the gear was not inspiring and the climbing - while not hard - was also not trivial. It was a bit scruffy from lack of travel, so that might had made the climbing slightly insecure. Perhaps a pink tricam (or bigger?) might have tamed the fiddy gear - but as it was I had an ok HB Offset (#3,4, or 5, not sure) and a marginal green camalot. I was happy when I plugged in a #1 above it!
After climbing the hand crack, I wasn't sure of where to go so I aimed for the bolt atop Poultry in Motion. The climbing is easy (5.6 slab), but expect LOTS of rope drag!!! Making it 5.6++++++++ :)
A fun route, and popularity will surely increase with the Skywalker traffic.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 9, 2012
|There's a hilarious pic in the old (1999?) McLane guidebook of Mr. Payan's FA in a leisure suit.|
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2016
|Mark, that picture is so good! Wish I had scanned it when I had that book.|