|The Planet of the Apes
This long route is one of the many multi-pitch routes to come in the Planet of the Apes area.
Pitch I (11c): The sport start is the crux but nothing much lets up until you reach the first anchor. Clipping bolts here with QDs except when you exit right out of the grey/white rock and on to the red rock shoulder under the anchors. Runners needed for this reachy/dino move. Straight up from here to the anchor.
Pitch II (11a): The trad second pitch is deep in a dihedral and requires some tricky stemming. Mostly BD number ones (4 would be good) gets you stemming out of the dihedral and on to a pillar. Three bolts more of face climbing gets you to chains (Same anchor as the end of Nova's Route). You can make a few more moves up here over doable but loose rock and top out only a few meters from the parking area to campsite B and the main down chute to the area. All-in-all, a fun team effort.
This route is just left of Nova's Route and right at the north edge of the talus.
Eight QDs, four shoulder-length runners, and BD .5-1.0 and lots of them,and one BD #2 for the crack. Two 60 meter ropes to rap or top out over some loose rock.
BETA PHOTO: Yellow is the top section or Pitch II of Man Can b...