Man and Superman 5.10d
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John K midway on Man and Superman
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Description Pretty fun arete just to the left of Double Clutch and Black Rib. The first half of the climb has a couple of thin sections broken up by good rests, then climb becomes more sustained as you get closer to the top. It's a fun climb for the grade.
Location Arete left of Double Clutch.
Protection TR. A lead would probably be exciting, but I'm sure it's been done.
Leading Man and Superman
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Rhoads leading Man and Superman
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Great shot showing the scale.
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The last gear.
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| Comments on Man and Superman |
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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 5, 2007
| Pretty darn hard 5.10d moves pulling through the top moves. Very strenuous and sequential moving up from the sharp angular undercling move and rightwards. The feet positions are pretty crucial in order to pull off these upper moves quickly and effeciently. I have the darndest time getting those moves correct. This climb is different then alot of DL routes in that the crux sits right at the top..... |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d R
| It would call this a reasonable lead with the proper gear (Yep, Ball-Nutz), the crux is definitely right at the top and the sun made the holds in the last seam pretty greasy to hold onto. Good moves all the way but hard to decipher at first. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 11, 2009
| Nick. What gear did you get before or at the big undercling move? I am sure you found the nice gear slot before the exit moves? I don't see in the pics.. curious. |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.10d R
| Hmmm...I don't remember an undercling. Are you referring to a right hand exit? I followed the guidebooks suggestion of a left hand exit.
My last pro was a #1 Metolious Power Cam and a 3 lobes engaged #0 Metolious Master Cam. Both didn't seem all that solid and I was hoping not to take a fall on them. I'll post a another pic or two of the finish. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 12, 2009
| Nick:
If you took the left hand exit then the crux was for sure at the top.
Right hand exit involves pulling up under large sharp angular undercling hold (off the ledges at 3/4 height), getting feet as high as possible next, and then reach out right to small positive square cut and eventually reaching through with left to nice divot (for gear)and another square cut just above. Finally you have to reposition feet on key holds in order to make desperate (for me) moves over the top.... I think the left hand finish is even harder... |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 12, 2009
| Nick:
Forgot to say. Way to go leading this "too" lately. I have been dreaming about doing the same but I have never explored the protection options. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 12, 2009
| Nick:
Did you on-sight this lead? Another way to go if you did! |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.10d R
| Thanks! Nope, not an on-sight, head point. It took two goes on TR to figure out the gear and to make sure I wasn't going to fall and then pulled the rope and sent!
I remember getting shut down on the right hand version a while ago so I didn't even try that way.
Eck, on-sighting anything this hard and up on tricky gear at DL would be a feat! Can't say I'm at that level yet.
On second thought, and reflecting upon the gear placements I'm going to have to bump this from PG-13 to R. |
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