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This climb is a foray into hard, crumbly edging and crimping. Despite the rather ephemeral nature of some of the rock, the climbing is quite good.
P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)
P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch, possibly with slightly better rock. (.13a?)
This route is located on the left side of the wall, to the right of a couple of other bolted lines (Strike It Rich, Naked Singularity and Strike A Bitch). Prickly Pear cactus is abundant at the base, whose spines occasioned at least an hour of removal efforts after pulling my rope into the cacti.
I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.
A hodgepodge of bolts: I believe there were seven with at least four distinct types. Buttonheads and Leeper hangers, threaded 1/4", etc. This would be a good candidate for some new hardware if it were climbed more than once or twice per decade. I think the anchors had webbing which I may have backed up but probably should still be treated with suspicion.
|By C Miller|
Sep 29, 2010
The first pitch has 6 bolts and was orginally rated 5.12c although it's since been downgraded.
The second pitch has 7 bolts, was orignally rated 5.13a/b and called Illusions.