|South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
This climb is a foray into hard, crumbly edging and crimping. Despite the rather ephemeral nature of some of the rock, the climbing is quite good.
P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)
P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch. (.13a?) Legend has it that this pitch may not have ever been climbed. See comments below.
This route is located on the left side of the wall, to the right of a couple of other bolted lines (Strike It Rich, Naked Singularity and Strike A Bitch). Prickly Pear cactus is abundant at the base, whose spines occasioned at least an hour of removal efforts after pulling my rope into the cacti.
I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.
A hodgepodge of bolts: I believe there were seven with at least four distinct types. Buttonheads and Leeper hangers, threaded 1/4", etc. This would be a good candidate for some new hardware if it were climbed more than once or twice per decade. I think the anchors had webbing which I may have backed up but probably should still be treated with suspicion.
|By C Miller|
Sep 29, 2010
The first pitch has 6 bolts and was orginally rated 5.12c although it's since been downgraded.
The second pitch has 7 bolts, was orignally rated 5.13a/b and called Illusions.
Feb 26, 2014
It's been theorized that the second pitch may never have been climbed, but I can't say for sure one way or the other. Follow the ongoing debate here on Supertopo.
From: So Cal
Mar 24, 2014
I just replaced the first two 1/4" bolts on the first pitch with 3/8" X 2 1/2" Hilti wedge anchors. Merciless, sharp crimping to a very thin, technical crux move around the last bolt and still another couple hard moves to get into the giant flake. Second pitch is way harder, more on that later.