Mamunia  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  P1: Troy Mayr, April 1988, P2: Troy Mayr & Rob Mulligan, 1989 Submitted By:  Drewsky on Sep 27, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This climb is a foray into hard, crumbly edging and crimping. Despite the rather ephemeral nature of some of the rock, the climbing is quite good.

P1: Several bolts worth of the aforementioned crimping up diminishing features on vertical ground leads to a slightly slabby and tortuously blank section. Magic foot moves lead past this balance crux to larger features and a belay atop an ominous block. (real .12a)

P2: While I didn't climb it, it appears to be a slightly overhung version of the first pitch, possibly with slightly better rock. (.13a?)

Location 

This route is located on the left side of the wall, to the right of a couple of other bolted lines (Strike It Rich, Naked Singularity and Strike A Bitch). Prickly Pear cactus is abundant at the base, whose spines occasioned at least an hour of removal efforts after pulling my rope into the cacti.

I believe that I retrieved two or three leaver 'biners from the first pitch alone and one from the first bolt on the second pitch. Crumbles and bolt quality notwithstanding, I think with more traffic this climb might clean up a little or, potentially, become impossible. Either way, it's worth a look if one is in the area.

Protection 

A hodgepodge of bolts: I believe there were seven with at least four distinct types. Buttonheads and Leeper hangers, threaded 1/4", etc. This would be a good candidate for some new hardware if it were climbed more than once or twice per decade. I think the anchors had webbing which I may have backed up but probably should still be treated with suspicion.