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Old Sandstone
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Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
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Wobbly Dihedral T 

Mammalary Magic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: U
Page Views: 2,156
Submitted By: Maikey Lopera on Jul 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Eric

Description 

This is the first route that you find to the left (west) of the Old Sandstone area. A nice slab with multiple pebbles embedded on it. Start by climbing straight up in the middle of the slab up to just below the biggest pebble. There are two ways to solve the crux move: one going straight up to the big pebble and the other by moving a little to the left (easier). From big pebble continue straight to the top.


Protection 

PRO: No much pro for this route. Expect a spicy run out. Use a couple of small cams (0.5-1) for the lower section (a green and red alien useful). The crux is protected by a rusty bolt about half way up. There is a horizontal crack around 20 ft past bolt that eats 1-1.5 cams.



Photos of Mammalary Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Burt at the bolt (he also had side gear).
Burt at the bolt (he also had side gear).
Mammalary Magic goes up the middle of the nice looking slab.
BETA PHOTO: Mammalary Magic goes up the middle of the nice loo...
Almost got it!
Almost got it!
John Knoernschild just above crux move.  <br /> <br />photo by Angie Olson
John Knoernschild just above crux move.

photo by...
On the XL pebble!
On the XL pebble!
Paul Campbell on Mammalary Magic <br /> <br />Photo by Angie Olson
Paul Campbell on Mammalary Magic

Photo by Angie O...
Eric
Eric
The Start
The Start
Opening sequence
Opening sequence
Comments on Mammalary Magic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2011
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Definitely a sketchy lead. The bolt looks like it is from antiquity. On lead, it is not a bad idea to cinch a wired stopper behind the hanger of the bolt (it is easy to do so because the hanger is loose and spins). This may calm the prospective leader's mind a little...

By Anonymous Coward
May 31, 2005

Gear Alert

This was my first outdoor climb. (it's me, David Koslowski, and I won't show up on the site til tomorrow) My climbing partner who has been teaching me *made* me do this route first. What an evil bastard... He said it was to learn to trust foot holds that seem to be nonexistent (at the crux) but I think he just likes to torture me.At the crux you can go to the left, sure, though I'm not sure how it's easier, as I tried that way and failed. I tried going up the middle, which I also could not figure out for the life of me. After dogging for what seemed like forever, I finally found a way up to the *right*. There's a specific spot over by the ledge that, if you search hard enough, you can smear just enough to pull you up past the crux. After that, the climb was a lot of fun.Oh, and that bolt near the bottom looks like it was placed by Noah.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 22, 2005

The bolt should be replaced.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Sep 23, 2005

The bolt should be yarded!!! this route has been led with out clipping the bolt. It's actually stupid to clip it because it's a piece of shit. I should know I botched the placement and have always regretted it...what was I thinking? Somebody should remove it and patch the hole, thanks...peace and fuk-nes.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This has to be one of my absolute favorite routes at DL. Perfect sandstone slab climbing, with great movement. If only it went on for another 100 ft.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

If only that bolt could hold a fall...

By Ian Schmit
Apr 24, 2007

I gave this a shot for an onsight lead two weekends ago. Got up to the bolt, cinched a stopper behind it as the hanger looks like its made from 1/16" sheet metal, clipped it, made two moves past the bolt, got totally gripped and wound up sliding off right to finish on the top of Wobbly Dihedral. What I'm wondering is if sliding off right before clipping the bolt, placing a piece or two with long runners in the left side crack of the top of Wobbly and then continuing up the slab is an acceptable ascent. I just really don't want to contemplate the consequences of whipping onto that bolt and feel that the crack, albeit not directly on the route, falls within the "in-reach" rule of leading at the Lake. What is everyone elses take on this?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

It's been a while, but I remember cinching the bolt, and climbing up a bit to get a few brassies in a crack off to the right, though not quite on Wobbly. Then I went down to the ledge and did the route, slinging the sappling at the top as the only pro for the upper section.

So few people lead this that I don't think it matters what you do, whether you place pro on Wobbly or whatever. At least you're leading it.

By Ian Schmit
May 6, 2007

In the photo you can see the crack I'm talking about. If you split the picture into thirds top to bottom it would be right on the right hand division about three quarters of the way up. I don't think its considered Wobbly but I'm not sure. Where did you put the brassies, Jay?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 6, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Ian, I think that's where I put the pieces.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

FA??

By Tradoholic
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X

I skipped the bolt, it's total crap. In a fix I think you could hang on it (if you put a wire around the bolt, the hanger will surly break) but it probably will not take a fall and besides, at that point in the climb it is fairly easy to bail on to "Wobbly". I ran it out to the big seam, plugged in #3 and #4 C4's and took it to the top.

Great slab moves on this thing. The big inset quartzite pebble is especially cool.

In my opinion, the "within reach" rule can be a bit too generous some times. If you're not actively using the feature to climb on, I think it's off route, especially if it's part of a different climb. Just my personal constitution I guess.

By Alex A
Feb 7, 2010

If you would like to do a fun, harder variation 5.11b avoid using all Quartzite pebbles, will test your slab climbing skills,

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

I took at 30 foot whip on this today. The gear is good. Though the fall you're looking at is mega. If this were on the 3rd or 4th pitch of some long ass route the run-out wouldn't have gotten to my head. This is definitely spicy. Contemplating why I like the R rated stuff. But, there is pro and in my opinion to protect from a groundfall you might as well cut right just before the crux to place a .75 to save yr ass.