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 ADVANCED
P.A.'s Mother
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Altar Boy T,S 
Archbishop, The T 
Coed Crack T 
E.B. Jeebies S 
Exposed Cleavage S 
High Hopes S,TR 
Hobnail Arete T,S 
Mama's Boy S 
Mother of Invention S,TR 
Pissant S 
Quality S 
R.R. Crossing S 
Regular Route T 
Throulin's Chimney T 
Throulin's Crack T 
Tough Guy S 
Two Pinches to Paradise S 

Mama's Boy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Afternoon sun (west facing)
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on May 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: West Face of P.A.'s Mother
1 Pissant 5.10b
2...

Description 

You might feel like crying home to momma if you go into this route thinking that it will be a 5.8 cruiser. The first bolt clips easily and then you hit the crux. Fun moves with small crimpers over almost vertical rock make this route a great place to hone your balance technique.


Location 

Located on the far right of PA's Mother.


Protection 

Five bolts to a two chain anchor.

The FA authorized that the route be bolted due to the difficultly of protecting the route with gear.



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11 Mama's Boy
BETA PHOTO: 11 Mama's Boy
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely a balancy, technical climb (hmmm... it's weird saying that about a 5.8). There's nothing too terribly difficult on the climb, but you need to hunt around for the holds.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Seemed a bit easier this time around. Enjoyable climbing. Anyone led it on gear recently? It's 5.8 R and trad in the Ruckman guide. Seems like it'd be fun.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 13, 2009

Was glad there was a draw already hanging on the second bolt. Balancy is a good word for this line.

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Echoing the balancy comments. Stiff for a 5.8. Would be really hard for someone who barely leads 5.8. I actually felt that this was just about as hard as Quality, to the left. Pretty fun, technical, sustained climb. Good change from the jug hauls that so many 5.8 are.

By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 8, 2010

Awesome sustained, balence-y climb. Highly recommended.

By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It seemed to me like the crux was from the 1st to the 2nd bolt, and it's a little ways. If you don't feel comfortable with a possible fall onto the belay ledge, then beware. After the 2nd bolt I felt like it eased up considerably.

By Nathaniel Holt
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 13, 2012

Every time I climb this route from the first to the second bold seems harder than 5.8 and every time it makes me work, maybe that's why I keep going back.

By Tim Moore
Mar 16, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good climb. Slightly technical and balancy not your typical 5.8 climb that is for sure. Thought it was more of a 5.9 especially with how bad the feet can be at times and how exposed you can get especially at the top if you stay on route

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Really high quality climbing that is oddly bolted and very clearly harder than 5.8. Just because it's sandbagged doesn't decrease it's quality, however! Really fun movement with bolts clipped at awkward stances. I was lucky and had a 6'2" gal lead the route first, then I led it on her draws which made clipping quite easier. If you blow it clipping the 2nd bolt there is deck potential.