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Mama Told Me Not To Come 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, 1982
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006
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C. Chaney leading Mama Told Me...

Description 

This is a thin crack in an obtuse dihedral. You could almost call it a flake, but it is actually more of a dihedral. The rock is a fantastic orange color and if you do this route in the fall you'll get the added benefit of brilliant red leaves on the vines that cover the face to the right.

Climb the crack, using the crack on the face at your own risk, to a ledge. There is a nice variation of moves on this route.

The cons are some sand up high and softer rock than normal. The route seems to protect best with cams, passive gear is trickier. The top anchor situation isn't ideal, you have to build a gear anchor off to the left and try to create a directional for the second. It's really hard to set this route up as a slingshot TR.


Location 

Follow the wall right from the main corner past Surfin' With Grizz. Look for an obtuse, right facing dihedral in orange rock. There is a friable splitter crack on the face to the right.


Protection 

Smaller gear mostly, with a piece or two hand sized or bigger. TCUs and small cams work best.

No fixed anchor at the top. Don't count on using trees.



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