Mama Jugs 5.8 PG13
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Donna Longo placing bomber wires.
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This one is great.
Cruise up low angle slab with few features to a ledge/platform below a the tiny pine bush (or traverse in from the right, from the slot approach to Dirty Diagonal). Climb straight up, high quality flakes with just enough creative & intermittent pro (nut placements between plates). Great moves for 50' up to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. You can belay here, lower to the dirt, or keep going and link into the 2nd pitch. For the 2nd pitch, traverse right and up into a left-facing corner. Go up this corner a short ways using big plates on either side, then fire straight up over the chickenhead on the skyline using one of the biggest mama jugs you've ever seen. Topping out is recommended, at least once, since you get to explore the summit area of Tres Piedras's biggest rock on the traverse to the descent.
Location Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the smaller and left-most of 2 pine trees just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here.
To descend: 3rd class walkoff to the east.
Protection Cams from TCUs up to 3", & 1 set nuts, perhaps including RPs.
It is also possible to climb only 1 pitch to the 2-bolt anchor 2/3 up, and return to the ground from here with a single 60m rope.
Passing through the lower crux
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Kristen on the lower slabs of "Mama Jugs".
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.8
| Mmmm...mama jugs! C3s, 000 and 00 specifically, along with tiny nuts, are nice on the first pitch of this route. Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope (probably even a 60m) but look out for rope drag. |
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 7, 2008
rating: 5.8
| Know how to use your nuts! |
By Minesh Bacrania
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.8
| An excellent route! Follow the line made by the pine tree propping the wall up and the tiny pine bush directly above it. The pro is somewhat thought-provoking, but didn't require any micronuts. |
By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Golden, CO
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.8
| You can climb this entire route in 1 pitch, ground to top of the cliff, with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag will have to be well managed. Not clipping or extending a sling on the bolt anchors before traversing right proves helpful. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Oh yeah, if this route is your proj the key holds are heavily tick marked as of last Saturday so go send it now!
Yes, I'm being sarcastic...I was blown away to see the ticks on the obvious and gigantic plates on this route last Saturday. Definitely unnecessary. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
May 9, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Crux for me definitely was the mantle on top of the eponymous "mama jug". If belaying up a shaky second, make sure you place a nut in the thin seam a few feet above this; if you don't, a fall for them could mean a mama pendulum! |
By Keith B. Ives
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2011
| I had trouble finding this w/out pics... There are new bolted routes that made it a bit tough. Also, there are 2 little pine trees that can confuse things. Anyways, on the ledge from the left: There is a crack, a green stain (with one bolt), & then your pine tree. Start directly above the pine tree (not to the left of it). |
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