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El Diablo Wall
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Dead Souls 
El Diablo 
Gateway, The 
Half Acre 
Heck 
I'll Take Black 
Inferno 
Malvado 
Old Feller 
Purgatory 

Malvado 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 2,209
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Sep 12, 2004
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Please see El Diablo for information on the modified nature of this classic route.

Same start as El Diablo. At the "Sika Pocket" clip the left bolt, then continue up and a little left to the anchors.

A fun crux on crimpers, underclings and big slopey holds hit you once you depart from "El Diablo". This route was one of the all time American Fork classics...and may still be. In July/04 the anchor block fell down (Yikes!), so the future of this route is unknown. For now, either lower off the last bolt or try to finish left on Inferno, and hope those anchors don't fall off!


Protection 

Bolts, often fixed. The anchors may be gone...see below



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By Mike Personick
From: SLC, UT
Jun 28, 2007

The route still goes without the anchor block up there. After the last bolt, do a sporty mantle onto a big ledge and clip the shuts to the left (these are the anchors for Inferno). Lowering off the last bolt is not a valid ascent of Malvado.

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 22, 2010

Aaron Shamy climbs Malvado. Check it out.