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El Diablo Wall
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Malvado S 
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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 3,236
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Sep 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Tyler getting the pencil hold on his red point.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Please see El Diablo for information on the modified nature of this classic route.

Same start as El Diablo. At the "Sika Pocket" clip the left bolt, then continue up and a little left to the anchors.

A fun crux on crimpers, underclings and big slopey holds hit you once you depart from "El Diablo". This route was one of the all time American Fork classics...and may still be. In July/04 the anchor block fell down (Yikes!), so the future of this route is unknown. For now, either lower off the last bolt or try to finish left on Inferno, and hope those anchors don't fall off!


Bolts, often fixed. The anchors may be gone...see below

Photos of Malvado Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Karn looking burly on Malvado (5.13a), America...
Jim Karn looking burly on Malvado (5.13a), America...
Rock Climbing Photo: Merto on Malvado.  6D Ziess 50mm 1.4
Merto on Malvado. 6D Ziess 50mm 1.4

Comments on Malvado Add Comment
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By Mike Personick
From: SLC, UT
Jun 28, 2007

The route still goes without the anchor block up there. After the last bolt, do a sporty mantle onto a big ledge and clip the shuts to the left (these are the anchors for Inferno). Lowering off the last bolt is not a valid ascent of Malvado.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Apr 22, 2010

Aaron Shamy climbs Malvado. Check it out.

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