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 ADVANCED
True Summit Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asymptote S 
Cunning Linguist TR 
Malnourished S 
Meltdown S 
Mickey B Way T 
Sidewinder T 
Sunset Arete TR 
True Summit Direct S 
Unnamed Free Route TR 
Vertigo T,S 

Malnourished 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c R

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: TBD
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011  with updates from Chris Bersbach

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Description 

Climb the north side of the True Summit Block. Not sure if anyone has ever led or climbed this route. Rumor has it that it was bolted by Ryan Bello in the 80s or early 90s.

Location 

The slot between the True Summit and the block with the Hiker's Register.

Protection 

Bolts or Top Rope. Lead bolts probably should be replaced.


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By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Worked on this route with Austin Moore, at the behest of John Knight, to see if we could verify the grade and/or unlock the crux sequence. It felt like 5.11- moves up to a very hard crux (V7/V8ish?), followed by 5.11+ moves to the top. Neither of us could quite manage the crux, but overall it wold probably iron out to something in the neighborhood of 13a/b. Of course, that's if a nothing breaks before someone manages to redpoint it.
By ryan bello
Nov 29, 2013

Yes I bolted and climbed Malnourished. I rated it a 12 + have not been back on it in many years so don't know if any holds have broken. This route is in the gully. I was more proud of " Meltdown" on the arete facing west towards Diablo ...hence the name...meltdown. That went at 5.11 ish. The hardest part just getting off the ground. The arÍte stays in your left hand for most of the way.
By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Thanks for the info, Ryan (just saw this comment!). I agree that Meltdown* is the better route, and *definitely* agree about the "getting off the ground" crux. That thing ain't playing.

  • I went ahead and added Meltdown to the database, based on your info and my single attempt on that route. Feel free to send/post any additional info that people might be interested in there, and I'll add it to the description: mountainproject.com/v/meltdown...