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Mallorol 
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Mallorol 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 271
Submitted By: TM Miller on Aug 18, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The Mallorol Wall. The route "Mallorol" follows t...

Description 

An absolutely beautiful route, and one of the "four classic 6-" routes of Bohuslan. The climbing unfolds in a beautiful way on this route, and the position on the clean wall is great.

Start in the corner and climb up easy terrain to a big ledge at the base of the clean wall. Near the left edge of the big ledge, climb up over the bulge onto the main wall and gain the crack system. Continue up the crack, then break off and follow the crack system to the right when possible and climb up towards the obvious left facing flake.

The crux comes at some committing face moves gaining the left facing flake. Layback/jam up the left side of the flake, then continue up and right following fun cracks to the top.

Note - Some climbers choose to scramble up the low 5th class terrain at the start and belay on the ledge where the real climbing begins. Otherwise, the route goes easily in one pitch from the ground.


Location 

To find the route: from the parking area in front of the farmhouse, walk back between the house and the barn to a fence gate. Go through the gate and walk through the field (to the right of the trees) until below and slightly past the Mallorol Wall (see photo of Mallorol Wall). Hike up into the trees and find the path up and left through some boulders to the base of the Mallorol Wall. An obvious path leads up to the base of the corner where the climbing begins.

To descend: From the top of the route, walk back away from the edge and down and climbers right, passing over some shattered rock, then walk back out right towards the edge of the cliff (you should now be on the next ledge below and right of the top of Mallorol). Facing out, you will notice a single bolt on the right side near the edge. Clip into this bolt with a sling, then lean out and look right around the corner and find the rappel anchors. NOTE - a single 70m rope will just make it down to the ground with stretch. Otherwise, bring a second rope to rappel.

(You could do the rap with a single 60m rope, as there is an intermediate anchor on the face below. The problem is that it is below a small lip/roof and you cannot see it from above and it will be somewhat awkward as there is no stance. Bringing two ropes or 70m rope is recommended.)


Protection 

Gear to 2 or 3".

At the top, you can build a belay with cams just over the lip, which is ideal for communicating with your follower. If you're out of gear, you can continue back and belay off the tree, but this will create some drag and make communication difficult.



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