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DescriptionMallorca is the largest of the four Balearic Islands--Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca. The island's mountainous limestone interior is home to many epic sport routes and its craggy coast provides some of the most scenic deep water soloing in the world. Guides and BetaRockfax has a very comprehensive online route database which contains many routes--but few details, and they publish an indispensable climbing guide called simply Mallorca. Additionally, several of the deep water soloing crags of Mallorca are covered in the book Deep Water and in a supplement available for paid download called Mallorca Deep Water Soloing. DWS World also has some useful information on DWS areas in Mallorca. There is another guide called Psicobloc Mallorca written in both Spanish and English which covers both DWS and sport climbing in Mallorca. Getting ThereMallorca is easily accessed via its International Airport in Palma (PMI). There are also regular ferries that travel there from mainland Spain. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mallorca:
Elvigilant de la platja 5.7 Sport Cala Magraner
Lord of the Rings 5.7+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet La Creveta : Main Wall
Fortuna 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet Cala Barques : Snatch Area
Las cagao 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet S'estret : Sector Cuarenton
Albahida aka Gubia Normal 5.8 Trad, 8 pitches, 850 feet, Grade II Sa Gubia : Albahida
Dali 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Valldemossa : Main area
Pilla Pilla 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Cala Magraner
Unknown 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cala Magraner
Tia melis 5.10a Sport, 2 pitches, 170 feet Sa Gubia : Paret dels Coloms
The Juggy One 5.10- Sport, 60 feet Cala Magraner
Little Fish Direct 5.10a/b TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet Cala Sa Nau : Virgin Area
Tight Slab 5.10a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet S'estret : Sector Cuarenton
Asuqui 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Cala Magraner
Sea 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Port de Sóller
Asuqui (according to the Rockfax guide) 5.10 Sport, 80 feet Cala Magraner
Comechochos 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Sa Gubia : Paret dels Coloms
Bisexual 5.10b/c TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Cala Barques : Metrosexual Area
Colesterol Party 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cala Santanyi
Intrepido 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Valldemossa : Main area
Sex cannabis 5.12 Sport, 45 feet Castell de Santueri
Featured Route For Mallorca
Asuqui 5.10b International : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner
Climb up to the little "popcorn tufa" but keep it on your right. The little roof at the top has great pockets and a nice little handlebar. Quality....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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