Warming up at the Virgin Area of Cala Sa Nau.
Mallorca is the largest of the four Balearic Islands--Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca. The island's mountainous limestone interior is home to many epic sport routes and its craggy coast provides some of the most scenic deep water soloing in the world.
(I was there for a week and unfortunately won't get a chance to go back for a while. I've tried to only post information about climbs that I led, so obviously there's a lot out there I haven't put online. If you want control of one of the areas I've posted, I'm happy to cede it to you. I hope that the community will help flesh out this area and make it truly useful. -Anthony)
Guides and Beta
has a very comprehensive online route database which contains many routes--but few details, and they publish an indispensable climbing guide called simply Mallorca.
Additionally, several of the deep water soloing crags of Mallorca are covered in the book Deep Water
and in a supplement available for paid download called Mallorca Deep Water Soloing. DWS World
also has some useful information on DWS areas in Mallorca. There is another guide called Psicobloc Mallorca
written in both Spanish and English which covers both DWS and sport climbing in Mallorca.
General information on Mallorca can be found on its Wikipedia page.
Lonely Planet publishes a useful Travel Guide to Mallorca
and has useful travel information on its website. Locals report regular break-ins to cars. Do not leave anything of value in your car while you are at a crag. Leave your car with the glove compartment open and any shade over the cargo area of your vehicle removed to show that there is nothing worth stealing. I met a climber who saw the aftermath of several car break-ins (smashed glass, travelers crying over the loss of all their pictures...) in broad daylight at a busy beach area. Because he was camping, he was forced to carry everything that he owned where ever he went. Not fun! Plan accordingly.
Mallorca is easily accessed via its International Airport in Palma (PMI). There are also regular ferries that travel there from mainland Spain.
Weather station 13.3 miles from here
97 Total Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Mallorca
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mallorca:
Featured Route For Mallorca
Albahida aka Gubia Normal 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Europe
: ... : Albahida
Viewed from a distance or, close up, the distinctive aręte of Albahida just begs to have a classic route on its steep, exposed spine of rock. And...it does! Bonus for modest climbers or those seeking an “escalade plaisir” day that the route is within the means of most abilities.Getting started: locate the base of the ridge. The lower angle ramp leading up to a green bushy stance is the first pitch.Pitch 1: scramble up the low angle ridge aiming for the enclosed ledge between bushes...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Oct 1, 2009
What a perfect place to climb on perfect limestone. We thought we would crag a little and DWS a lot but it was the opposite. The crags were so varied and the views were so wonderful that we just had to check out as many as possible. There are at least 44 crags on the island, not including the dozens of DWS cliffs. The best part of Mallorca was trying to decide where to climb, what beach to visit, what to eat and drink. Climbing is only part of the attraction. Only a small portion of the potential has been developed. As far as the DWS goes, what a blast. Bring or buy a 60 foot piece of rope and tie knots in it to help get out of the water. Most sea cliffs are under cut so you either swim to an exit, which can be far, or use your rope to assist with your climb out of the water. The best time to Psicobloc is mid to late summer as the water is much warmer.
By David Kozak
Apr 28, 2012
Could someone please tell me what the weather is like on Mallorca during the months of December and January? Thx.
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Jun 17, 2012
Let me recommend you find one of the may climbing shops on Mallorca and purchase the guide but the Mallorcan Miquel Riera, it is much more comprehensive than the Rockfax guide.
From: Sydney, AUS
Sep 10, 2013
From: Providence, RI
Jul 6, 2014
Any updates on overall DWS access on the island? Here are the articles I am referring to. Anyone been climbing at the popular DWS areas recently? Are the signs banning climbing still in place? Are people climbing anyway? Such a shame to lose such an amazing place. I went a few years ago and am dying to go back, but not if DWS is banned.