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 ADVANCED
Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land T,S 
All the Nasties T 
Banana Patch T 
Bitchin Chimney T 
Brain Dead S 
Cowboyography T,S 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 
Hueco Syndrome S 
Lunacy T 
Lunar Abstract S 
Malice In Bucketland T 
Sea of Holes S 
Uriah's Heap T 
Walking on the Moon T 
Window Pain S 

Malice In Bucketland 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Head, Dave Head
Season: Fall thru Spring
Page Views: 3,037
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Susan on her first ever pulls at Hueco.

Some areas require a guide.

Description 

Pretty good intro to the Hueco roped routes. Right off the Malice Boulder, jungle gym your way up big deep huecos to the first bolt (about 25' up), then move left and up the rounded arete past seven more bolts, working huecos and good edges. Head up and right at the last bolt to get to the two bolt anchor. There are some pretty good stretches between bolts on this route, so climb carefully!

Location 

The route launches off the Malice Boulder, found on a narrow buttress sandwiched between two large chimneys just right of the Cakewalk section of North Mountain.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. You can slingshot this route with a 70m rope, but NOT with a 60m! Bring two ropes if you have 60m!


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Susan on her way
Susan on her way

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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Classic hueco pulling on good rock and maybe the best route in Hueco for the grade. If for some reason you are rapping to clean the draws, be careful as the route is well left of the anchors and you will be looking at a good swinger into Paul Bunyons Chimney if you botch the rap.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 17, 2007

This is the first route I'd ever done at HT & what a treat! Nice introduction to the area and what to expect in the climbing. Bolted line is actually 7 bolts w/2 bolt anchor. Not 8 like the guide and MP indicate.

The last bolt didn't create any sort of rope drag but I noted in my book to bring a long quick-draw for the last clip as it is a bit left of the anchors.

~Susan
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 11, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Mike Head originally led this on sketchy natural gear in 1983. Dave Head added two bolts in 1985. Mike Head did the phase II work about 1989 (Rock $ Ice #36).

I bought a 200m Bluewater and cut it in half. Using my 100m rope makes lowering off everything on the Front Side sweet!

There are no double bolt anchors at the top. This is because the supervising ranger wanted to prevent sport rappelling and associated hanger theft. Now, with day user limits and passes, summit anchors should not be a problem. In fact, rappelling routes would make us easier to be monitored and lessen traffic around the sensitive water holes on top. Something to consider if a phase four, bolt replacement, ever happens.
By J. Nickel
Mar 1, 2013

A classic, but the bolts and hangers are getting quite old and should be replaced.