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Male Menopause 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,404
Submitted By: eMurdock on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Photo: E. Rhicard

Description 

The start of Male Menopause is located 20 feet or so to the left of Old Man. Start up a thin seam/crack. Move right through steeper rock. Move left onto ledges and climb the hand crack in the headwall. If the handcrack were longer this route would be classic. Provacative climbing for the grade with adequate, although not always abundant, gear.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3"


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By Wes Turner
From: az
May 27, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The 1st fmove or two on this climb are tough at .8+, plug in cam and go to it. a micro TCU makes turning the roof feel alot better. A great Windy Point climb.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route. I'm always amazed at how few people give this one a go. Personally, I always find the handcrack section near the top to be the hardest. But then, I'm hardly the world's greatest crack climber.

Watch out for getting your rope caught in the thin flake after you pull the roof move. You may have to put a nut in here just to keep the rope out from behind the flake!

Also, don't mess up in the first 20 feet or so. They aren't hard moves, but if you blow it, decking is definitely a possibility.

That having been said, i do believe this route is bolted entirely appropriately (i.e. there are no bolts.)
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Holy typos! Let's try that again:

Personally, I always find the handcrack section near the top to be the hardest. But then, I'm hardly the world's greatest crack climber.

Watch out for getting your rope caught in the thin flake after you pull the roof move. You may have to put a nut in here just to keep the rope out from behind the flake!

Also, don't mess up in the first 20 feet or so. They aren't hard moves, but if you blow it, decking is definitely a possibility.

That having been said, I do believe this route is bolted entirely appropriately (i.e. there are no bolts.)
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 29, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.8's a sandbag for this climb. Kind of bouldery low 10s moves to a good stance and ledge, protected by a .3 or .4 cam, not sure how bomber that cam was, if I remember correctly you kind of have to commit the move to get a better look at it.

But at least somebody was kind enough to fix a #1 Camalot just after the hard stuff at the bottom. (Edit: has been cleaned)
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 6, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

definitely not 5.8. very cool climb though. just be careful on the thinly protected bottom (5.8ish) section.

EDIT 9/27/15
i did this route again today. the bottom felt like 5.9 and was questionably protected by the smallest non-aid nut i have (BD #3). also, pulling through the blocky stuff to the right of the roof will put you well above your gear. be careful.
By Ryan Suedkamp
Dec 6, 2015

Cool old school climb. I thought the crack before the anchor was pretty unique for Mount Lemmon. It sure felt harder than 5.8 to me. You got to love those old school routes!
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Mar 11, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Got bad rope drag on this wandering route. A large cam (BD #4, a #5 would work too) was useful right after the roof. The crux is down low and I felt like I was pulling the crux move a few feet above my last piece. Would not recommend for newer trad leaders. The route is a walk off, or you and your follower could rap off the cold shuts about 6 feet to climber's right of the anchor bolts. A 60m will just barely get you down. Tie knots in the ends! Hand crack part was sweet.

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