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Waterfall Canyon
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Malan's Waterfall 

Malan's Waterfall 

WI5 R

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1971
Season: WInter Inversions
Page Views: 1,575
Submitted By: Stymingersfink on Dec 24, 2007
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Merril beginning the first pitch.

Description 

Two Options, both entail a 45-50min approach.

Option 1:

P1:(WI4+) Climb the steep but steppy right side to a sheltered ledge belay with a slung tree, about 150' up.

P2:(WI5)Continue up the right side to a 45' column surrounded by cauliflower ice, above here one may find a pin anchor to rap from, or continue up the next curtain to a pin or screw anchor at the frozen pool. Approx. 190'


Option 2:

P1:(WI5)Climb the steeper (and often thinner) left side, belaying from screws in an icy cave 180' from the ground.

P2: (WI5)Leave the belay, traverse right about 15-20', then up the steep pillar presenting itself to you.

If you will be rapping off, step right and downclimb a short way to the pin anchor mentioned in option 1 above.
If you will be walking off, continue up the next shorter pillar to the frozen pool.

BOTH OPTIONS:

P3: (WI3)Solo (or rope up, whatever floats your boat) a 50' section of WI3 to gain the gully above. To walk off, continue up the drainage a bit, then gain the ridgeline directly east. The trail drops steeply down to the original canyon you began in, but farther up from where your packs will be.


Location 

If you're in the proper canyon, you can't miss this one... it's a biggie! Walk-off details mentioned above, if you're going to rap the route, bring v-thread materials just in case.


Protection 

5-8 screws



Photos of Malan's Waterfall Slideshow Add Photo
Coming out of the left side P1 belay, some 'cicles just had to go.
Coming out of the left side P1 belay, some 'cicles...
Ace Welton, runnin' out a line center-right.
Ace Welton, runnin' out a line center-right.
Malan's, showing the two options (majid style) for ascending the route. The top of the red line shows the pin-anchor option, though it's much preferable to top out and do the walk-off.
BETA PHOTO: Malan's, showing the two options (majid style) for...
Comments on Malan's Waterfall Add Comment
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By dfrancom
From: Anchorage, AK
Dec 29, 2009

The right conditions are sometimes hard to catch, beware of the second pitch, when its warm ice will be falling in large car sized pieces. But when its right, its a real treat!