Nestled in a small mountainside cut lies a collection of south facing, discontinuous crags reminiscent of Rumney New Hampshire. This area consists of more than 370 routes, most of which are bolted and single pitch. Many of the lines are easily top roped since scrambling to the top of the crags is generally easy and solid anchors abound. The parking lot is free but not very large, get there early even on weekdays as large groups of retirees have taken to climbing. There is a guide book that covers this area which includes basic topo maps, numbered lines, and grading using the Yosemite decimal and UIAA systems. However, all the text is written in Japanese so descriptions, route names, and area info will need translating.
This area is located just north of the Izu peninsula in a place called Yugawara. Yugawara station appears to be the closest train stop, although I have not been there by train. Approach times from the parking lot vary, but the closest crags are 5 minutes or less via obvious though unmarked trails.
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