|White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.
pro to 4", bolt (3/8")
Moving past the bolt on Make or Break Flake (5.10b...
Nov 20, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
For the anchor, I didn't find any need for larger gear. Two BD 0.5's and an Orange Metolius did the trick nicely. A really fun route.
|By Sam Prentice|
Oct 10, 2008
Sexy, boulderly start with fun finger locks and jams, followed by short easy shuffling and awkward face moves to exit.
The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day.
|By C Miller|
Oct 10, 2008
As per the route description - "descent is via the gully to the right".
Try the right side next time! Going right is casual and makes the need for rap bolts unnecessary.
|By Pat C|
May 11, 2009
This climb is totally awesome. I felt like macho man randy savage after I got past the start!