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 ADVANCED
White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace of Spades 
Conqueror Worm 
Field and Stream 
Good Housekeeping 
High Anxiety 
High Tension 
Jack of Hearts 
Make or Break Flake 
Nolina Crack 
Perennial Favorite 
Popular Mechanics 
Quest for Fire 
Scientific Americans 
Sen Blen 
Sharon Stone 
Solar Flare 
Stone Hinge 
Wilted Flower Children 
Unsorted Routes:

Make or Break Flake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, Mike Lechlinkski, Mari Gingery & John Long, December 1977
Page Views: 1,040
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Make Or Break Flake (5.10b) on the left and Quest ...

Description 

A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.

Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.


Location 

This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.


Protection 

pro to 4", bolt (3/8")



Photos of Make or Break Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Moving past the bolt on Make or Break Flake (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
Moving past the bolt on Make or Break Flake (5.10b...
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By ChugachMan
Nov 20, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

For the anchor, I didn't find any need for larger gear. Two BD 0.5's and an Orange Metolius did the trick nicely. A really fun route.

By Sam Prentice
From: CA
Oct 10, 2008

Sexy, boulderly start with fun finger locks and jams, followed by short easy shuffling and awkward face moves to exit.

The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day.

By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 10, 2008

As per the route description - "descent is via the gully to the right".

Try the right side next time! Going right is casual and makes the need for rap bolts unnecessary.

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
May 11, 2009

This climb is totally awesome. I felt like macho man randy savage after I got past the start!