Make or Break Flake 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, Mike Lechlinkski, Mari Gingery & John Long, December 1977 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Moving past the bolt on Make or Break Flake (5.10b...
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Description A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
Location This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.
Protection pro to 4", bolt (3/8")
BETA PHOTO: Make Or Break Flake (5.10b) on the left and Quest ...
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| Comments on Make or Break Flake |
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By ChugachMan
Nov 20, 2006
rating: 5.10b
| For the anchor, I didn't find any need for larger gear. Two BD 0.5's and an Orange Metolius did the trick nicely. A really fun route. |
By Sam Prentice
From: CA
Oct 10, 2008
| Sexy, boulderly start with fun finger locks and jams, followed by short easy shuffling and awkward face moves to exit.
The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 10, 2008
| As per the route description - "descent is via the gully to the right".
Try the right side next time! Going right is casual and makes the need for rap bolts unnecessary. |
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
May 11, 2009
| This climb is totally awesome. I felt like macho man randy savage after I got past the start! |
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