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Summit Ledges (Utopia area)
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Makamah Road (Utopia area) 

Makamah Road (Utopia area) 

WI3 M1

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus: WI3 M1 [details]
FA: Bradley White 1/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 5, 2013

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Iced ledge finish.

Description 

This climb goes to the summit. Its quite different from the usual Rumney ice climbing lower. Here the wind and exposure to open weather can change the conditions from ice to more snow climbed.
The climb starts up a short but very hard mantle onto a snow slope. After the snow do mixed climbing up corner ramp then a snow ramp up left bypasses steep slap to the rest ledge. Here escape west and up is easily doable. Or go as I did. Traverse ascend east until reached are tool hooks on a snow ramp flake below and right of the dead tree. Go up over elongated rocks, then more rocks to snow up to top of snow filled arch. Go right to get onto the bottom of the summit ice. Step lightly up until thicker ice is reached. Finish flow to small oak trees for a belay at the summit.
Hard to get there and I would repeat the climb with its various ways to do the first pitch but it an awful approach. Don't know if I will repeat it again this year. Its the only ice up at the summit area.


Location 

Approach from the east side of the summit ledge line and traverse the line west to the ice section. Direct approach would be up a terrible boulder ravine. Its to long a description to the east ledges and that is listed in Utopia area rock climbing.


Protection 

Small set of stoppers or tri-cams and a couple of regular largest cams. Frozen in place blocks are crossed over and climbed up before the finish. Walk down east side of summit. Make a belay above the snow field after the start. Then a long pitch to the summit. Small regrowth oak trees to belay from at the summit.



Photos of Makamah Road (Utopia area) Slideshow Add Photo
The start
The start
Summit (close enough to the summit)
Summit (close enough to the summit)
The corner ramp
The corner ramp
Start area
BETA PHOTO: Start area
The fork in the road not taken.
The fork in the road not taken.
Snow ramp ledge and this was not climbed. There are rocks in the snow on the edge of the image. Below these rocks are larger rocks at the dead tree. All these rocks were climbed and not the snow ramp was until close to its end.
Snow ramp ledge and this was not climbed. There ar...
Excellent tool placements.
Excellent tool placements.
Started on the base of the right side.
Started on the base of the right side.
My modern tools, could be in a museum.
My modern tools, could be in a museum.
Close estimate of winter route.
Close estimate of winter route.
Comments on Makamah Road (Utopia area) Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 5, 2013

Sorry bradley- but what the hell is M1+ R ?

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 5, 2013

Bradley where exactly is this climb? It does not sounds like you actually climbed at the Hinterlands by you description...

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jan 5, 2013

Both are good questions.
I took + off, John. I put it on because the mixed at the start was strenuous and tool placements on rock for the right side I thought good were a dead end. Moving left, my left foot kicked the ice off and became on rock with difficulty as my right foot hopped up on thick ice. I struggled much more for tool placements in the thin plating smear up and left while doing this.
I had an R on it because there is no trustworthy protection for 100 plus feet to the top. Also the regrowth oak trees for summit belay look weak. They're oak and I would trust them linked together. Its winter climbing and I will leave it at that, I know better. There is R climbing often and it is usually unmentioned, taken for granted.
Look at Makamah Road rock climb, Matt in the Utopia area and you'll get a ball park idea where this ice climb is on the mountain. It has the same start and goes right of the corner on the upper section in winter. It is no where near the Hinterlands. I didn't know where else to put it. Crows Nest Gully isn't Hinterlands so, I put my climb here also.
I may not know where to put more climbs again. I don't want to create new areas. It will get very complicated. I would rather have an odd ball route in the nearest area listed already. I could have listed this at the Meadows because it is not near anywhere.
The snow was shallow and no snow shoes were required. Deep snow will be a major uphill fight for the journey. The climb would be a lot different with much snow.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 6, 2013

Bradley I think by not adding the area it will get more confusing and complicated than a good concise description for the area. What does everybody else think?

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jan 7, 2013

I will make it an area.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jan 7, 2013

Hi Mark, I made the Summit Ledges an area for Makamah Road and I need this route moved please. Thank you, Brad