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(e) South Face
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ivan Couch and Mike Dent
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Up the slot.


This climb is easy to locate - a deep, narrow slot near the right end of the wall. Easy chimneying leads to an unpleasant exit sequence.


one bolt and one or two large pieces (2" - 4")

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By Ben Crowell
Aug 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I started to lead this and ended up downclimbing because I couldn't find much solid pro, just a crap nut placement and a spot where my smallest cam only found two lobes worth of purchase. If you own a big bro you could certainly use it here. None of us were ever able to find the bolt on the left -- does it no longer exist? All we saw were the bolts for Minuet. Later three of us top-roped the climb, and even so I ended up failing the nasty exit at the top. Couldn't manage to lock in a chicken wing or any other technique that worked.
By Nick ANgelillo
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is actually an amazing climb demanding all kinds of off width and chimney skills... leg bars, back stepping, body squeezes, leg bracing, knee locking, all kinds of stuff! The topo in the old vogel guide says there is a bolt. But to answer your question from the other comment... The bolt has been chopped. Yes the route protects poorly due to the fact that its a giant off width with a body swallowing chimney in the back!! i placed a small nut in the beginning before getting into the business. then I believe a #4 c4 where the crack goes right. then a .75 c4 under the big protruding nose-like rock, as a well as a #5 way up in the crack before making the final moves out, which consisted of some strenuous/awkward hand jams in the back of the crack. Seems a wee bit harder then the given grade though so just be prepared to fight for this one. If you like chimneys and off widths, its worth it!!

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