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Major Tom is the attractive two-part arÍte to the left of Le Rap et Tap, offering excellent rock and some of the best exposure in BCC. The first part is protected by three bolts up to a ledge. The second part begins by stepping right off the ledge to avoid a severely undercut section of the arÍte, and then moving back left past the fourth bolt to regain the arÍte above the undercut. A small cam with a runner protects the move to clip the fourth bolt. Above, one more bolt protects exciting climbing (take a deep breath) to the large belay ledge shared with Rear-View Mirrors, Le Rap, and Wealth of Nations. Really a sport route, but calling it trad to keep off the draws-only crowd.
Approach as for Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations. Major Tom can be led from either the ledge and pine tree at the base of those routes (consider using longish draws on the first three bolts) or, less comfortably, from a small footstance and cams near the base of the arÍte (which would require some exposed third or fourth classing to reach).
Five draws for the bolts, and a few finger-size and smaller cams and long runner. Rap from a bolt and slings around a flake.
Sep 17, 2012
This is pretty dang fun. Cool arete surfing with gear where you don't have bolts or to move safely between them. Careful not to get yourself too bunched up in the crux. Nice moves on great rock.