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Joel Johnson near the top of Major Groove.
Major Groove climbs the wide crack just to the left of the Access Route. Face climb (crux) to the base of the groove/crack. Grunt your way up the crack with a combination of face, crack, and chimney techniques. Not a difficult climb, and like the Access Route, very short.
Start from the left side of the grassy ledge on the east face buttress (just left of Access Route).
Leadable with medium to large cams. You can also set a good top rope anchor with a couple of large cams (BD #3.5) above the route.
From: Fairbanks, AK
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Many laps up this over the summer have cleaned up most of the nasty lichen and moss creating a pretty fun little climb. The top does take gear if you want to TR from the ledge at the base. There are plenty of gear anchor options at the top. Rap off Minor Groove bolts.