MAJAKOL Line 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Manny Rangel and Jake Dayley and Kole Decou |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | cold weather |
| Submitted By: | manuel rangel on Dec 10, 2006 |
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Jake Dayley on MAJAK Line FA making the route his....
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Description The start is face to a thin crack that widens to perfect hands, the rock is harder than lots of other soft sedona routes. Great hands for a long ways then a short easy OW section gets you to the works. A 10' roof guards the exit but it's no more than 10+ jams with a bomber lock after the roof. Steep lieback on the limestone band to exit right and you're done.
Location From Soldier Pass trailhead walk easterly on trail to drainage wandering north to the base of Tower of Bootle and Japhead. Get into the drainage south of the Tower and approach from the west on ledges to just south of tower. Climb starts on east face with anchor bolts.
Protection one bolt, (2) black aliens, (1)blue, red camalot, (5) #2 camalots, (2) #3 camalot, sm to med nuts (hexes optional, I like em). Anchor at start and rap off chains with 70m or double ropes.
Kole liebacks the limestone band, a couple jams ma...
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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 6, 2007
| See topo in Jap Head Section. |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| An absolutely stellar climb. Probably the best pitch I've done in Sedona to date.
A couple of good footholds have come off of the roof. It may eventually become a second crux. |
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 15, 2007
| Out of curiosity how did you get down? We always had a 70m on us so we never tested if you can rap to the booltleful anchors and then off with a 60. |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 15, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| I got down the same way you did, with a 70m rope. |
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, az
Nov 16, 2007
rating: 5.11a PG13
| just did it w/ 5 #2 camalots and ended up with one still on the rack at the summit, so I'd recommend only taking 4 #2's, 1 #3, & 1 #4 (you could place a #5 if you wanted to). I concur w/ the beta on the little gear + small nuts, and yeah hexes would be useful. Super cool climbing on crappy rock; I'd recommend it to anyone who has a taste for choss! Nothing technically that difficult but the sustained climbing warrants 11a. Exciting from start to finish! |
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