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Coke Bottle
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Bell Crack T 
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Mainstreet T 
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Hesse, 1972
Page Views: 10,902
Submitted By: david goldstein on May 31, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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Mainstreet and Vedauwoo view.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a long grind and a good intro to 5.10 offwidth. It is considerably harder than Grand Giraffe but much easier than Crack of Fear. The crux section is fairly short and well protected, but it is followed by a long stretch of 5.7 - 5.8 chimney that is likely to be runout. This is route #2 on the Coke Bottle overview photo.

Ascend 20' easily to two side-by-side bolts which mark the start of the difficulties. The next 15' are bulgey and the crux of the climb. Several small holds on the left keep the climbing from being too desperate. A #5 Camalot cam be walked through most of this section, but be careful as the crack gradually widens. The crux is over when you grab a chickenhead on the right from which you can reach a bolt. Continue for about 20', offwidth widening to squeeze, to another bolt, using the crack and chickenheads on the right; shortly before the 2nd bolt a large chickenhead can be draped with a full length sling. After the second bolt the crack is squeeze chimney and wider; big bros provide most pro opportunities though another #5 Camalot coult probably be placed near the top; at any rate, you probably want some sort of gear plan for this section as it is 40 or 50' from the last bolt to the anchors. Eventually you reach a ledge which has bolt anchors about 10' to the right of the crack. Belaying at the end of the crack, rather than at the bolts, provides a more comfortable and directionally superior belay; I used a medium nut and a #4 Camalot for this anchor but a variety of different sized pieces would work.

From the belay either rap 120' from the bolt anchors or climb Mr. Rockbiter 50' of slabby 10a w/ 6 bolts.

Note that much of the grunting and scraping can be avoided by stemming outside of the crack, an easier but much less secure option probably best utilized by the second.


At least 1 #5 Camalot (it would be nice to also have a #6 Friend) and at least 1 #3 Big Bro. Long slings. A couple of medium nuts for a directional at the end of the pitch.

Photos of Mainstreet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Mainstreet.
Me leading Mainstreet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Off-width bliss.
Off-width bliss.
Rock Climbing Photo: So many rests on Mainstreet.... Photo taken by Bre...
So many rests on Mainstreet.... Photo taken by Bre...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim leading Mainstreet.
Jim leading Mainstreet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Angus.
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 5.10 section.
Starting the 5.10 section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Angus.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich working his way up Mainstreet.
Rich working his way up Mainstreet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the crux.
Entering the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Japanese visitors enjoying Vedauwoo, Sept. 2014.
Japanese visitors enjoying Vedauwoo, Sept. 2014.

Comments on Mainstreet Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 24, 2013
By Edward Corder II
Aug 20, 2003

This climb is a grade III? Wow!
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 20, 2003

Hmmm...... personally speaking, offwidths DO take me a long time....... maybe Grade III is close to accurate.
By Edward Corder II
Aug 21, 2003

Regardless of how long it takes you Jake, it still is not a grade III. A grade three typically consists of multiple pitches,up to seven I believe. No single pitch climb could ever be a grade III.However Mainstreet is a long & difficult pitch.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 21, 2003

You'd think I'd have learned my lesson my now, but apparently not -- sarcasm doesn't transmit well in e-mails or internet postings. I was merely poking fun at my own lack of grace and skill on off-widths, and generally agree with Edward's assessment on the grading issue for Mainstreet. I'd probably consider a Grade III a little broader, though, so as to include "all day" routes like Epinephrine at Red Rocks. The 14 pitches there definitely add up to more than Grade II, but I'm not sure I'd consider it Grade IV.
By Edward Corder II
Aug 21, 2003

Didn't mean to bust your chops their Jake.I find these grading systems to be very inconsistent, so I always like to ask other climbers view on this matter.
By david goldstein
Aug 21, 2003

Just to set the record straight, the Grade III I assigned to this one pitch climb when I posted it was a typo.

It's really a Grade IV.
By Edward Corder II
Aug 22, 2003

Why not make it a grade VII?
By Joe Collins
Sep 29, 2003

Wow, a wide crack that's actually fun! This would be a great intro to 5.10 OW. There are 3 bolts on this climb... one at the start, one at the end of the crux, and one in the upper section (I find the presence of these bolts to be curious considering this is well protected with modern OW gear). 2 #5 camalots and 1 #3 bigbro worked great as the rack for this climb... anything smaller is extra weight. The crux is as well protected as OW gets, but you should be a solid at 5.8 chimneys since you have to run it out for long stretches on the upper part.

As fun and classic as OW gets.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
May 18, 2004

The bolts are for an adjacent face route, the Kopischka classic Neverending Story. Just convenient that you can reach some of them from the offwidth.
By Wade Griffith
Jan 16, 2006

The couple bolts on Mainstreet were put there prior to big gear I believe. The first bolt used to be a hideous 1/4 that I replaced in 1997. Sure you can get gear in nearby but people still clipped it so I replaced it. The upper bolt is too far away to be part of Neverending Story and has been there a while.
By KevinCO
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 26, 2006

Don't forget to use elbow protection (neoprene pads or strectch tape). I ground crystals into my elbow, chickenwinging and it became infected. I finished on Kopischka, an exciting face climb. Actually, i bailed out of the unprotected chimney onto the bolted climb, which was quite hard after offwidth exhaustion.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Apr 24, 2006

This is a great off-width experience. Don't let the second bolt on the right side seduce you into starting left side in. I tried this fell out, went right side in and felt is was significantly easier. Combined with Mr. Rockbiter, you could not ask for two more different pitches-four stars!
By Jason Haas
Jun 18, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

FA: Mark Hesse 1972
By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 19, 2008

Hey Wade:
When you replaced that first bolt, (thanks for that), did you give any thought to moving it to the left wall? I asked because I aways perform an awkward clip from right-side in and then turn around to left-side in which I feel more comfortable doing AFTER I clip the bolt.
By Wade Griffith
Jul 31, 2008

No, I actually just pulled the 1/4"er and redrilled the hole to accomodate a 3/8th inch. I think that the bolt is unecessary but if people are gonna clip it, might as well be bomber.
By Dan F
Jan 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A little less intense than what can be typically be expected from Vedauwoo 5.10. Lots of good rests. Hardest part is being comfortable with the gear. Awesome climb.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2010

“It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.”
- Confucius
By slim
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

"Unless you are paying by the minute" - some dude in the red light district.
By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was wondering what 5.10 offwidth felt like at Vedauwoo, so I led this today. Great rests along the way. I sure wish I had saved my #6 Camalot for after the last bolt. I had to run it all the way to the chains on a fully tipped out #5 that was basically worthless. Bigbros or 2 #6s would have been nice. Oh the joys of on-sight climbing.

Classic route indeed.
By Tim Sinson
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lot's of fun. Took 3 #6 pieces 1 #4 Bigbro and small stopper (or purple/green Camalot would work). Also took two #5 Camalots (new school Black Diamond....what were they thinking?) DID NOT PLACE #5 Camalots.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2012

Amazing route! My favorite OW at Vedauwoo so far. And easier than it looks. R side in at the start. Switch later. Surprising that it's lead up on so little gear, but the 3 bolts help. We used a 0.75 Camalot to start, 2x #6 Camalot, 1x #4 Bigbro, shoulder slings, and draws for the bolts. New #5 Camalot didn't fit. 60m doesn't reach the ground, but there is a bolted anchor halfway up the slab, so easy to get off with 2 raps.
By justin hausmann
Jul 24, 2013

A #6 fits almost the whole way. Was just tipped for a short section. Walk it or take more. The bolted anchors were easily rapped of with a 70m. Started right side in for the good feet, then switched after crux to left in from the chickenhead. Gets shade after 3 this time of year.

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