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West Wall
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jay Smith, Bill Todd, 1976. FFA: John Bachar, Ron Kauk, 1978.
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


On the steep cliff band below Main Ledge are two nearly parallel cracks. This climbs the left crack.
Boulder up to the crack, after about 70', the crack turns up and left. 5.11 climbing leads to easy climbing and Main Ledge.


Pro to 2.5".

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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Save a few 1 and 2 camalots for the beefy albeit short crux. This route is a must do for the thin hands maestros....

Don't be intimidated, if you can boulder out the initial section, I feel like you can send....
By Ryan Curry
Jun 15, 2008

I found the bouldery start (which it shares with Magnum Force) to be nearly as difficult as the thin hands higher up. Maybe not technically, but more difficult to commit to. I used a green alien, small steel wire, and a 000 C3 off the deck and a .75 Camalot and orange Alien at the upper thin hands crux. Send it!
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 16, 2011

this route really needs a pair of bolts at the top.
By Ben J.
From: Beacon, NY
Oct 21, 2013

I really, really like this route. It has a few distinct sections, all with fun and interesting climbing. The start is indeed intimidating. However, you can protect it well with a blue TCU and a purple TCU. I haven't really climbed anything quite like the upper crux section. A few small to medium cams work well for the anchor in a short corner section just below the main ledge.
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