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Mainline 

5.11c

   
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Type: Trad, 115 feet
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
FA: Jay Smith, Bill Todd, 1976. FFA: John Bachar, Ron Kauk, 1978.
Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

On the steep cliff band below Main Ledge are two nearly parallel cracks. This climbs the left crack.
Boulder up to the crack, after about 70', the crack turns up and left. 5.11 climbing leads to easy climbing and Main Ledge.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5".



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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Save a few 1 and 2 camalots for the beefy albeit short crux. This route is a must do for the thin hands maestros....

Don't be intimidated, if you can boulder out the initial section, I feel like you can send....

By Ryan Curry
Jun 15, 2008

I found the bouldery start (which it shares with Magnum Force) to be nearly as difficult as the thin hands higher up. Maybe not technically, but more difficult to commit to. I used a green alien, small steel wire, and a 000 C3 off the deck and a .75 Camalot and orange Alien at the upper thin hands crux. Send it!

By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Aug 16, 2011

this route really needs a pair of bolts at the top.