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Katahdin
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Armadillo, The 
Chimney, The 
Cilley-Barber 
Pamola Ice Cliffs 

The Chimney 

5.6 WI2 Mod. Snow

   
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FA: W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)
Type: Trad, Ice, Snow
Consensus: 5.3 WI2 [details]
Length:  Grade II
Views: 422 page views

Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 28, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

BETA PHOTO: The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as s...


Description 

A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!


Location 

The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.


Protection 

Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).



Add Photo Photos of The Chimney
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.

Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.

Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climbing the Chimney Route.

Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climb...