Every goes very smoothly till you get to the ledge. Once at the ledge you can either go left up the arete or head straight up. I feel that the climb was originally intended to go straight up but I wasn't able to figure out the moves. If you go left towards the arete. I feel that you knock the climb down a letter grade and a number grade to a 10a/b. The crux this way is very pumpy and a fall could result in a dangerous swing into the ledge.
Location
Follow the Jack Williams trail till you come to a stack of rocks. Take a hard left and follow the deer trail till you get to the Cliff
Hi Kris! John Weaver bolted and climbed this route in 1992-93. I always thought the lower arete was the sketchiest part. Fun route though and nice picture. Have these routes all been rebolted?
Hi peter! Most of the ramparts has been re-bolted. Ben Townsend and Alan Reese put in the stuff to 11a and I rebolted all of the harder stuff that you and Weaver did back in the day. Tilted arch still goes on gear w/ 1 bolt above the lip where I broke off the good hold last spring. Now a throw to a crimper ;). The project to left of dream WEAVER is going back in in the spring. Also 2-3 more proj. going in in the area, but they are HARD. Cheers and thanks for the climbs.PS. Renascence 12c? Old school, i like it.
Thanks for the news regarding rebolting the Camden area routes. The name Tilted Arc refers to a sculpture by Richard Serra that was ultimately taken down by its patron, the U.S. General Services Administration, an unwittingly prophetic name, I guess
I'd be psyched to hear about other developments. The project left of Dream Weaver was supposed to have been done already but I never was able to confirm it. It should be in the 13d/14a range. Too bad it seeps a lot.
I was (and still might be) helping Ben with photo topos for the new guide, I have a rough draft of the guide and the route still goes at 11a in the new edition. But I agree with a rating of 10c. Also, what new lines were you gonna put up? I'd be very interested to check them out. Thanks.
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