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Return to Forever 

5.9+

   

FA: please help
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 95 feet
Views: 593 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2007


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Rappelling from the fixed anchor atop Return to Fo...


Description 

More classic stemming & laybacking! A terrific linkup with Old Town.

From the Old Town ledge, climb straight up through an awkward V-shaped slot to reach the clean, left-facing corner. Stem and layback your way to the top.


Location 

Located directly above the Old Town Ledge.

For more info, click here


Protection 

Tiny to small cams and nuts. One piton. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007

After climbing both Emigrant Crack (5.10b) and Connecticut Crack (5.11a) clean, this one still spit me out of the crux dihedral. Additionally, gear was strenuous to place.

Do not underestimate this route given the modest grade.

By Phil Persson
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.9+

What a great route.... agreed with Mr. Fienup, there are some slightly devious/tricky moves, but great pro [small cams and rp's], beatuful rock, and fantastic location make this one of the best routes I have done anywhere for it's grade. Very highly reccomended!!