The Precipice is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs “Old Town” (5.7) and “Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: “The Story of O” (5.6), “Green Mountain Breakdown” (5.9+), and “Chitlins Corner” (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, “Acadia: a climber’s guide” by Jeff Butterfield and can be picked up at Cadillac Mountain Sports in Bar Harbor.
The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although most climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Due to Peregrine Falcon nesting, the right side of the Precipice is closed seasonally.
The island has many campgrounds, although the island is more of a bed-and-breakfast type of place. Definitely try some of the local brews on the island. The Bar Harbor Real Ale is exceptionally good and is made by the Atlantic Brewing Company on the island. Also, if you need an inexpensive, fatty burrito after climbing, go to Gringo’s in Bar Harbor.
Getting There
Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.
Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.Matthew Fienup:Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks....[more]
If you make the trip to New England, make a point to head to this crag. In my opinion the rock, and climbing are both quality. If you're a 10 plus-11 trad leader you'll make quick work of these routes, but the quality is so good you might just do some routes twice. One you must do is Green Mt. Breakdown...absolutely classic climbing and position.
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