Mountain Project: Climbing Acadia National Park

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Latitude: 44.3396 Longitude: -68.2581
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Description

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Getting There

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Acadia National Park:

Wafer Step 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Precipice

Easy Corner 5.6 Trad, TR, 60 feet Otter Cliffs

Story of O 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet The Precipice

Overhanging Corner 5.6 Trad, TR, 50 feet Otter Cliffs

Old Town 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Precipice

Chlitlin Corner 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet The Precipice

Wonder Wall 5.9 TR, 50 feet Otter Cliffs

Rock Lobster 5.9 TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Otter Cliffs

Recollections of Pacifica 5.9 Trad, 50 feet The Precipice

Return to Forever 5.9+ Trad, 95 feet The Precipice

A Dare by the Sea 5.10b/c PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Otter Cliffs

Connecticut Crack 5.11a Trad, 70 feet The Precipice

The Fish Scale 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Great Head : The Cavern

Dragon Fish 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Great Head : The Cavern

Featured Route For Acadia National Park

Rock Lobster 5.9 ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs

Climb up good edges and horizontals up the face right of a chimney to a small roof. Pull the roof and lie-back up a thin left leaning corner....[more] Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Acadia National Park

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By Pete eye
From: Palm Springs, CA
Aug 6, 2008

"Acadia- A climbers Guide" by Jeff Butterfield very handy.

By steve damboise
From: boulder colorado
Nov 21, 2008

I'm wondering if you guys or gals have started bolting routes here anywhere! on the island there's potential everywhere .( LETS PROGRESS THE SPORT !!!!! )

By Ian Dorko
Apr 22, 2009

steve, this: http://www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/climbingregulations.ht>>>>> might explain why there isn't a lot of bolting on the island.

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