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Acadia National Park 
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Camden Hills 
Castine 
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Fort Williams  
Grafton Notch State Park 
Great Ledges, The 
Hot Spot , camden hills 
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Lion's Den 
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Royal River Bouldering 
Shagg Crag 
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Tumble Down Dick Mt. 
Tumble Down Mt. 
Twitchell Pond  


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Maine 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007

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Logging truck and cloud cap over Mt. Katahdin

Description 

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Sep 9, 2007


Getting There 

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maine:
Cilley-Barber   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   Katahdin
Wafer Step   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Chimney   5.6 WI2 Mod. Snow     Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II   Katahdin
Story of O   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Armadillo   5.7     Trad, Grade IV   Katahdin
Old Town   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Chlitlin Corner   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Morning Glory   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove
Recollections of Pacifica   5.9     Trad, 50 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff
Return to Forever   5.9+     Trad, 95 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
The Great Escape   5.10d     Sport   Shagg Crag
Connecticut Crack   5.11a     Trad, 70 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a     Sport   Shagg Crag
Ginseng Route   5.12c     Sport   Shagg Crag
Meltdown   5.12c/d     Sport   Shagg Crag
What About Bob?   5.12d     Sport, 65 feet   Shagg Crag
Shagg It    5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Shagg Crag
Dragon Fish   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Great Head : The Cavern
Browse More Classics in Maine

Featured Route For Maine
Rebecca Lambert doing the Fat Lady heel hook

When the fat lady sings 5.13c  ME : Shagg Crag
Climb Fat pig but continue up the route past 1st set of anchors to the obvious finish at the top. If and or WHEN you whip before the anchors watch out for the tree................:)....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


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Maine

Maine

Coastal Maine <br />

Coastal Maine



Comments on Maine Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 10, 2007

For a sample of climbing in Maine check out the film Uncommon Ground

By justo
From: slc
Apr 23, 2009

Maine rocks!

By mAineAc
May 22, 2010

Where can I find that film Uncommon Ground? Your link does not work. I have tried searching with no luck.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 17, 2010

I am going to be in the Portland area the week of the 19th of July and would really appreciate the loan of a crashpad or two while I am there. If you can help, message me via MP.

By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 1, 2012

Does anyone have route info on Quoddy Head in Lubec? Could you please post?

By Sam Dudley
Apr 28, 2013

Hi, I am actually going to be in the Augusta area from May 1 - May 12 and would really love to explore some of the rock climbing in the area. I climb 10's and 11's mostly. I will have a car so I can get around. Please let me know if you want to hook up!
Sam